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Announcements
Posted by: perry on 02/01/2009 05:12 PM
Updated by: perry on 02/01/2009 05:12 PM
Expires: 01/01/2014 12:00 AM
Bucharamanga and the Route to Medellin
After the death defying drop of 2000 meters in just 50km we found ourselves in Bucharamanga. The city is big but we quickly found our way to the Bomberos and they invited us to stay with them as long as we needed. We also got an invitation to go to the farm of one of the bomberos really close to canyon Chicamocha at La Mesa de Los Santos. We also met up with Jose, a guy with a tv show about motorcycles who interviewed us while we were on our way to Pamplona. Read more to find out how we enjoyed Bucharamanga...
So, we had a place to stay with the Bomberos. And we even had beds this time! It was great. We called up Jose to let him know we were in town. The next day he met us for lunch. We went to a Hare Krishna restaurant in the city center. Then we went back to theBomberos to go with one of them to his farm in La Mesa de Los Santos. Well, he said 2pm, but by 3:30 he wasn't there. So we called up Jose again and he took us to a few bike shops so we could look for parts. No luck.
But later in the evening, while watching Jose's show on the TV (we were on it), his wife came by to pick us up and raced us the the TV station so we could go on air live. It was funny and strange. I don't like cameras anymore. People sticking the phones out of cars suck and are stupid. Then doing that interview on the side of the road was kinda annoying. But being dragged to atv station and rushed onto tv live sucked. But it was short and we all went out after for beer at a salsa club. We danced a bit and drank a lot. Then we went to the rooftop pool of some swanky hotel where we met Mr. Harley Davidson (Colombia's version) and his party which was just breaking up when we arrived. That was a funny 10 minutes. We went back to theBomberos a bit drunk and talked a bit with the guy on night duty, ate some leftovers, and slept.
Our other days were basically spent exploring the city and getting some stuff done. Austin found a place that could fix his fender, which recently broke horribly while he was going downhill. hehe . He also found a place that could take the big beach waterproof umbrella that he's been carrying for months and turn them into real bag covers that actually cover the bag instead of just lay on top. And they were cheap. I got a some new brake pads since I put my spares on after that downhill toBucharamanga totally wiped the front ones out (I either changed them in Mexico or they are from Europe). I also got a spare screw (wow, eh?). I keep looking for replacement tubes. Nope. My parents will bring some to Ecuador and we'll be meeting them in March. We also sampled the local street food like thin wafers with a caramelized fruit spread, pineapple and raspberry jams, cheese, coconut, and sweet cream all sandwiched inside. WOW! Also the localarepas.
One day I checked my email and got a message from someone in Giron, a village near Bucharamanga. She wanted to show us her town. So we headed there and she took us on a tour of this old colonial village, full of life and fun. It was cool. Then we headed to her house (she lead us, inspanish, and blindfolded to her house) and met her parents. Soli was really amazing and fun to talk to. She's studying spiders at her University, that's cool! But just as we were done squeezing oranges for juice, we had to run to catch the last bus back toBucharamanga. I forgot my shirt.
We also ended going with Sira, one of the Bomberos, to his farm at La Mesa do Los Santos. He lives a 10 minute walk from the cliffs of a huge canyon. Canyon Chicamocha is beautiful. And the cliffs on the side are famous for rock climbing. But they day we were there, nobody was around to rent us the gear, so we couldn't climb. But walking along the cliff edge was great on it's own. We also went on a tour ofSira's farm. It's pretty big and he seems to have some big plans for growing more stuff. He's got tobacco, and he gave us a couple leaves. It was harsh tobacco without a filter, but it was also quite nice and different for a change. Sira's wife cooked us every meal and we slept in hammocks in the slightly chilly night (they think it's fucking cold at night and think we're crazy for sleeping outside). The next day we went back to the canyon on our own, sat there for a few hours and just got really stoned. Nice.
When we finally decided to leave Bucharamanga, we were given a lot of gifts from the Bomberos. Cool shit like patches, lapellettes with fire in a triangle, and a tshirt which says Bomberos de Bucharamanga (I had to hide this gift until I was out of Bucharamanga to keep the firefighter from getting into trouble). We also got some crap like plastic licence plates, really fragile and there's nowhere to put one on my bike. It's cool, but what am I supposed to do with it but shove it in my backpack until it breaks? We headed out and went downhill toGiron again. It was on the way and I wanted to get my shirt back, and to see Soli again. We were escorted by an over-friendly motorcyclist, first to his house for our second breakfast in 20 minutes, then to Soli's house where he gifted us spray deodorant and shaving razors. I didn't keep mine. We ended up hanging out with Soli , her neighbor Alexa, and later Alexa's brother, David. We had a really great time talking about all sorts of stuff. Alexa started coming on strong to Austin andSoli and I were hitting it off. But we had nowhere we could stay and we'd only done 10km on our first day out from Bucharamanga. So we decided to go uphill and our of Giron.
The ride up was hard. I caught the back of a truck for a couple km, but the road was so broken, I had to loose it and wait for Austin. It was also quite hot. But the view was amazing. To our right we were climbing up the side of a cliff. Below us wasGiron with all the buildings in the old town painted white. Above Giron, about 75 to 100 meters, there was another, bigger, shelf of land with sprawling Bucharamanga taking up the entire perspective. Beyond rose the mountains we traveled down coming from Cucuta.
We eventually made it to the top of the hill and stared the drop to Lebrija. Lebrija is the pineapple capital of Colombia. But on the way down Austin's chain broke. And right in front of a hotel. A hotel up a huge hill. But we got to use their place for free and camped in their garden. The next morning we actually made it the last 1.5km downhill toLebrija to find out that they don't do anything special with pineapple. I thought maybe they'd have special sweets or dried pineapple or something. Nope, just pineapples and pineapple juice, just like the rest of Colombia. So we headed out and coasted down the hills, crossed the riverSogomoso, and down into the hot heartland of the Magdalena river valley. Crossing the Sogomoso was cool. The bridge was 20 meters higher on the other side, to the right the hills rolled away and to the left the river cut straight through the mountains, the furthest of which disappeared into haze. We spent the night at some little farm with uninteresting people. But we could use their stove to cook but they weren't interested in talking to us much.
We left early.
From there we headed along and ended up in Porto Araújo. We cycled to the main square and a bar owner said we could camp in the back yard. It was saturday night. The village was partying. We had some great food (arepas with sweet sauces and cheese and a pizza). We also talked to a few people, drank beer, and went to sleep kinda early just because we were so tired.
We were invited to breakfast. They woke up when we knocked on their door. We didn't leave until 11. They gave us some useless gifts too. I don't need swimming trunks (I've ditched them) and Austin got a shirt that he used for a day and ditched too. We crossed the river Magdalena (big and dirty) and enteredPuerto Berrío . We did a bit of net stuff, had some juice, and headed out. Up we went into the mountains until it started getting dark. We looked for a place to stay and ended up in a place called Brazil. We spent the night camping in Frederico's garden. He was cool and interesting but spoke a lot with percentages (which I immediately associate with pulling numbers out of ones ass). It was fun. There was a 4 year old boy who was funny and cute. He kept asking for bits of the veg and cheese we were cutting up for dinner. Yup, Austin keeps saying that he's going back to being vegan. We keep buying cheese!
We started heading up. The hills were beautiful old mountains which have shrunken and become really beautiful mounds. The mounds kept getting bigger and the mountains started showing their faces. Then we were just before San Josede Nus where the road goes down steep. Austin's brakes failed him and he was using his shoe to brake. He didn't wipe out at all but at the bottom of the hill he just flew past a police check point, jumped two speed bumps, then finally came to a stop in front on a restaurant. Good, I was hungry. Austin went straight to work on his brakes and replaced thediskbrake's shoes. His front disk is bent and he couldn't set it very strong. But it was better than what he had, which was nothing.
On we went until just 6km before the village of Cisneros. My spoke broke. We had to stop. We were shown to a house we could camp in and the village donated a bunch of food to us to cook. All was well. I went to work and changed to spoke. Austin cooked. The next day we rode the 6km intoCisneros and were there for hours. Austin went to a shop and bought a CD player (a no-name model) which took a while, then on the net, which took forever. It was nearly 3 when we left. We had a big climb ahead of us. We climbed and climbed. We took lots of breaks. We grabbed onto trucks. It took 3 hours in the hot sun. Then we dropped again. We ended up spending the night at the side of a cold stream. What a nice bath!
The next day was a lot easier than the previous. We had a good average breaking 20km/h for the first time in days. The road got wider, we had more space, the hills got easier, and we entered Medellin. Which is where we are now and I'll write about later.
From here we start heading south through the coffee corridor to Cali, Pasto, Ipiales, and into Ecuador. We have about 30 days to do it in before our visa's expire. It'll be interesting!
Peace,
Perry
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