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Posted by: perry on 01/18/2009 11:11 AM
Updated by: perry on 01/18/2009 11:11 AM
Expires: 01/01/2014 12:00 AM
Cucuta, Pamplona, And The Ride Into The Clouds
We entered Colombia in the small border town of Puerto Santander and headed south to Cucuta where we stayed for a few days recuperating from our race to get out of Venezuela on time (saddle sore sucks!). After that we mapped out a bit of out journey in Colombia and headed out from Cucuta up into the mountains to Pamplona for a few days then up up up again into the clouds and the cold before dropping more than 2000 meters in about 50km of road (wheeee!) to Bucharamanga.
Aside from the strangeness of Austin eating eggs and cheese in the morning in Orope, the rest of the day seemed to go by just fine. From Orope to the border was an easy and flat 12km ride. We'd finished all of our pot the day before so there would be no stupid holdups at the border. Well, when we finally got to Puerto Santander we found out that we didn't need to work so hard to finish our stash. The border was wide open. Not even an immigration officer or anything. I went and asked the only uniformed person I saw and he said to go check-in in Cucuta. So off we went, up and down hills, slowly climbing bit by bit, then suddenly we crested the hill and saw the squalor of Cucuta for the first time.
We didn't know where to go, so I started asking people where the Bomberos were, thinking we would try to stay a few nights in Cucuta for free with them. Well, the Bomberos are located near the bus terminal, so we headed that way on a road based on nightmares. After about a thousand potholes on an already more than sore ass, we made it to the Bomberos but were turned down. Not knowing what to do we thought about trying to get to the red cross or civil protection. But it was just about to get dark, we didn't know where those places were and neither did anybody we asked. So we went searching for a cheap place to stay and ended up in Hotel Zulia paying $5 each per night.
That night Austin and I shared a veggie pizza with CHEESE on it. His claim that eating cheese and eggs in the morning was a one time thing turned into a "today only" thing. Then it became a "one week thing" then a "two week thing." It doesn't matter to me. I actually like it more that he's eating eggs and cheese. It makes it a lot more fun to go to a bakery and to get a few cakes and share them with him. Also we've been buying cheese and cooking some really amazing meals which we weren't able to do before. After the pizza, we went in search of ice cream and made root beer floats, substituting root beer for malt.
Since we entered Colombia at a border without Immigration, we needed to go check into the country. So our task for our first full day in Cucuta was to go to DAS (the immigration office) and check in. Well, when we arrived, we were told we had to go to the actual border, cross back into Venezuela, check out from there, and then we could check into Colombia. So, another bus ride and we were at the border. We had to fork over about $23 each for the privilege of leaving Venezuela then quickly entered into Colombia. Before heading back to the city, we walked around the border town eating fried bread filled with cheese and other yummy things for lunch. Then we headed to the center of the city. The center of Cucuta is a huge shopping and commercial center, not much more. We went to a couple super markets and Austin bought like 5 different types of cheese. Austin also took a few pics of fabric for his mom.
The next day was spent almost entirely on the net. Then in the evening we walked to the center, past the strip joints and hookers, to the fabric store that we were at the day before. Austin bought his mom and bunch of different cotton sheets to ship to her the next morning. For sure I knew that shipping was going to cost him, and it did. The next morning he spent the entire morning packing the fabric. Then, since it was already after lunch, he had to wait until 2pm to ship it. We were planning to leave that day, but Austin didn't return until just before dark. I ended up spending my whole day just waiting for him. I hate waiting. But in the afternoon I found a bike shop that had some things that I really wanted. I got some more spare spokes and a new soft seat (to save my poor tuchas). I also managed to get a replacement parts for Austin's bike for free by trading my old seat away for it. In the evening we watched a really stupid movie on TV about snakes on an airplane. IT SUCKED. It was so bad it was funny. Then Austin left to go quickly email his mom and didn't return for an hour and a half, so I took off and drank beer with some guys on the street.
So the next morning we finally got going on our way to Pamplona. It would take us two days to climb the more than 2000 meters (including downhills which mean we had to repeat a lot of the climbing). Right at about lunch time we came up to a pool with two slides and asked the owner if we could use their facilities for about half an hour while taking my sweaty shirt and billowing it on my chest to show I was overheated. We got to use the pool for free! I did a few laps then the water slides were turned on. The slides were great including one really really steep one called velocity. The slides were great but my saddle sored ass didn't agree with uneven bottom of the slide. So I only rode each slide once, disappointed. But my new seat has been a LOT more comfortable. There is a lot less movement of the seat below me when I ride on bumps, so my ass is getting better.
After swimming we were allowed to use their kitchen and cooked a HUGE lunch. We had an omelet with cheese, fries, fried plantain, and lots more. Actually I don't like having such a huge lunch while cycling. It's just so hard to get moving when your tummy is full. But up and up we went and eventually I saw a sign that made me stop. It was a sign for a natural hot water spring. When Austin caught up we immediately decided to go there. Agua Termales Raizon had many pools set up, but we only used the hottest one. We got permission to sleep there that night and they even cooked us a nice dinner. After all the tourists left, we went back down to the pool and soaked in the hot water with a joint (the grass was a gift to us as we were heading out of Cucuta in the morning). Once warm to the core, I slept like a baby in the slightly chilly mountain air.
The next morning we headed up again. This time the route was a lot steeper and I think no more than two short downhill breaks in 40+km. It was hard work and slow going with an average of just over 10km/h (Austin was more like 7km/h). I got a lot more beaks than he did. But today was really great. The mountains rose around us and the valley dropped below us as the cliffs got steeper. We passed lots of little farms and got lots of free fruit and veg from the farmers, directly out of the soil or off a tree. The road was completely covered by former mud slides in a lot of places making the progress incredibly hard and slow. I ended up breaking a spoke. Also along the way we met a family that was returning to Pamplona after a vacation in Venezuela and got in invitation to stay with them in their extra room. Also, with just 4km to go before Pamplona, and just after smoking, we got interviewed by a guy from Bucharamanga. Jose works on television and interviewed us for his TV program. I'll see if I can put up the interview later.
When we got to Pamplona, we called up Giovanni and Christina and got directions to their house where we met Camilo (Christina's 13 year old son) and Louis, who we met earlier on the side of the road. We had dinner with them and then went to sleep early and exhausted. Pamplona gets nicely cold at night, a bit above freezing. Not too cold, just the right comfy coolness that makes sleeping a pleasure. But the moon was full and incredibly bright shining in the window directly into my face. I didn't really get to sleep until the moon passed out from where I was sleeping.
Our first day in Pamplona was really chill. We went with the family to one of the farmer's markets in the city and got a bunch of veg for lunch. Then we went back to the house and Christina made an excellent lunch for us. After lunch Austin and I went to the city to use the net. I was done quickly and rode around town a bit while Austin stayed on the net. I ended up finding a museum of photography and stopped there. I got to talking with Emiliano and Koky about my travels and life and stuff. I really got to like them, and Koky helped me resupply ourselves with ganja. I quickly took off to go get Austin and brought him back to the museum. Then we all talked and hung out until about 8pm. I spent a lot of the time slowly and painfully translating a poorly written English letter into Spanish for Koky.
We went back to the house and had a cool time tutoring Camilo in English. For a 13 year old, I think his English is pretty good. And since he met us I think he's a bit inspired to learn English with more gusto. Then as it got late, we said goodnight to our hosts, went outside, and sampled the new grass that we picked up. It worked.
In the morning we were invited to stay another night. I found out that Camilo plays chess. He plays great. He's the youth champion of Cucuta. We played a few games and I think I won about every 2 of 3 games. He's sharp as a whip. Then we had lunch with the family (breaking our promise to eat lunch with Emiliano and Koky) before heading up into the mountains on a nice long walk. We climbed and climbed and had a great view of the mountains around us and the road that we would have to climb up when we left Pamplona, which was always above us, way above us. After the walk I played more chess with Camilo then we all went for pizza for dinner (we invited the family).
The next morning we left the house early like we were going to go up into the mountains. But instead we spent a bit of time searching for coffee and cake for breakfast. Then we had arepas with egg and cheese. After that we went to the museum and met up with Emiliano. He was a bit disappointed that we didn't come for lunch the day before. But he was cool with it and even offered to let us sleep at his place that night. Not much later Koky showed up. I guess she was waiting all day for us at the museum. But I think she probably spends all of her days at the museum. Anyhow, we went with Koky up into the hills by the university and got stoned. Then she talked our ears off without stopping for a single breath. Eventually I was able to interject in her lecture that I was hungry so we headed back into town for a really good $0.75 lunch. Then I took off and wandered around town a little bit on my own. When I met up with Austin and Koky later, they had a bottle of sweet red wine. Austin said he'd go on the net for a few minutes (took over an hour and a half) then we drank the wine in the central plaza. Well, I had a sip and hated the sweet wine. SWEET WINE SUCKS. For dinner we went back to the pizza place and had calzones. Then we got stoned with Koky again and her chatting went into overdrive again. It was maddening. She talk to us (not with us, but to us) about he fucking shoes for like half an hour. NOBODY CARES ABOUT ANYBODY ELSE'S FUCKING SHOES! That night Austin and I both agreed that she's fucking nuts. Friendly but nuts.
The next morning we really finally left Pamplona. The ride was up up up and a bit more up. There were a couple small downhills, but not really worth mentioning. We also saw the result of a truck which had gone off the road. It must have happened about a half an hour before we got there. There was a huge line of cars waiting for the truck to be cleared away. We just cycled up to the front. Then we had to wait and wait, and of course we had to entertain all the people who got out of their cars to go check out the weird bike. The same questions over and over again, and annoying fucking video cameras. As soon as there was enough room to squeeze our bikes through, we took advantage of the fact that there wouldn't be any cars going uphill for a long time and took off. We had to climb past all the cars waiting and facing downhill, then we had the road to ourselves for a really long time. Then we saw the results of another truck accident. I took a piss on it.
Again along the route we got lots of free veg from farmers. The best was some freshly picked radishes which we ate like apples. They really refreshed us. Then up up up some more to a roadblock before some construction. We were allowed to pass before the cars but didn't get to the actually construction site before the cars did. So we ended up having to push our bikes through sandy soil (unable to ride) and went to the first little shop to wait for all the construction traffic to go by. We got a big bag of strawberries for a buck, some fresh local yogurt, and at it with our leftover granola! What a great snack. We were also given a bag of beans and an onion.
After we finished our yogurt with strawberries, we headed to the next village, La Laguna (where there is no laguna). It was cold, the clouds were rolling up the mountainside from below us. I've lost a lot of weight on this trip and the cold hits me like a sledge hammer now. Austin wanted to camp, but there were hardly any trees, a strong wind, and I was already cold and it wasn't even dark out yet. I asked how much a room at the hotel there would cost. Well, for $6 for both of us, including the use of the kitchen and a hot shower, we took it. And I'm glad because it got colder at night. Sure I would have survived sleeping outside, but I wouldn't have been as comfortable, it wouldn't have been easy to make a fire with the lack of wood around, and I really enjoyed my hot shower.
In the morning we finished the second half of the strawberries with another jug of yogurt (really fucking good yogurt). Then we had about 20km of decently long downhill rides to just have to go back up to the same height again. It wasn't too hard because we had long downhills to help us along. Then eventually we got to the mountain mesa and had relatively flat road for about 15km. The road was shit, but it was manageable. Then we made it to what we'd been looking forward to since Cucuta. The downhill. The downhill took us down more than 2000 meters in just 50km of pavement. The road was serpentine. The cliffs were steep. We went fast. We passed cars and trucks on the inside of turns. By the end I boosted my average for the day from 12km/h to 23km/h. But the road was totally shit, especially in the turns. A few times I though I was going to loose my bike from underneath me as it fell into a pothole with potholes and more potholes and back out onto the pavement again to encounter the next set of nested potholes, all while speeding down the mountain. Many of the potholes I was able to avoid or jump over (bunny hopping with my SPD clips), but sometimes the bike would just shudder and rock while I struggled to keep balance on a flying bike. I love going downhill. What a blast! Austin had a close call, but he'll have to tell you about it. I didn't see it. But I did see him sliding along the guard rail at least once and heard his bags scraping the ground on turns many times.
So, down down down the mountain we went. Down to Bucharamanga where we are now. So I'll write about it later. Our plans are to leave here soon and go to Medellin. From there we are going to head south to the coffee region of Colombia then Equador. I'm really looking forward to the trip but I'm kinds worried about how much time we'll have to spend in the coffee region and still have enough time to get out of Colombia before our 60 day visa expired on March 6th.
Traveling is still a lot of fun. I still have a lot of the same problems. The biggest one I have is waiting. I'm tired of waiting. When Austin says he'll be just a few minutes, it regularly turns into hours and I just sit and wait because we plan to do something and to leave as soon as he returns. We've had to miss doing a few things because he would leave for a few minutes and not return for hours and hours. In Cucuta I sat around waiting for a whole day. We were supposed to leave as soon as he got back. We ended up staying another night, but my day was wasted in anticipation that we would be leaving. It's not the first time and it's starting to get old.
I'm also getting quite bored with all the questions from curious people about our travels. It's always the same. Then a photo. Then someone else will show up in the crowd and ask all the same fucking questions. I understand the curiosity but it's gotten old. Sometimes it's different and that's when I really like traveling. For example, we were in one village and there were a bunch of guys drinking beer in the sun. All that they asked is that we tell the whole world how stupid their friend is so everybody knows. But I think it'll be different as we head south. Here we are greengo's, but further south, in Chile and Argentina, we won't be in the tropics anymore and we'll look a bit less obviously foreign. Sure there are a few people with white skin here, but hardly anybody with dread locks and tall like me.
So, Austin told my yesterday that today is the last day he's going to eat cheese and eggs. I hope he's wrong. It's been a lot easier for us to eat a quick snack when eggs and cheese are an option.
Peace,
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