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Posted by: perry on 11/13/2008 05:40 PM
Updated by: perry on 11/13/2008 05:40 PM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
Estrellas de las Bicicletas

We entered into Venezuela with one major goal in mind, to get to the capital, Caracas. But we had many other plans for the 1200km route on the way as well; including having as much fun as possible and to visit as many nice beaches as possible. Austin, Augustin, Emilio, and I found many things that we never expected to find and didn't find what we though was there.

We entered Venezuela on the 9th of October, just 3 days before my visa in Colombia expired. Our first goal was to get to the first ATM since none of us had any Venezuelan Bolivares. The first two villages had ATM's that didn't work. Eventually Emilio and I hitchhiked with our bikes to Mojan to get some cash and some food. The plan was to then cycle back to where Austin and Augustin were and set up camp for the night. By the time we were done with our tasks, Augustin and Austin were on their way into Mojan too. So, we were lucky enough to find a nice home that lent us an extra bedroom and let us use their kitchen. Also we were met for the first time with a problem which would strike us over and over again in the next month, Augustin's home made trailer broke. I'm not sure how many times it broke in one way or another, nor how many hours we lost on the way, but his trailer had certainly seen better days.

From Mojan we went to Maracaibo, which is a huge metropolis. We headed straight toward the center of the city to look for a place to sleep and didn't find anything even remotely cheap. So we went with plan B. Before meet up with us, Augustin and Emilio had spent many-a-night staying at El Cuerpo de Bomberos (the fire fighter's house). We went there and were taken in openly and warmly. OK, so we had to pitch our hammocks and tent on the road outside, but we got showers, free food, and our bikes were stored in a safe place. We ended up spending two nights there. It was a blast seeing the firefighters trying out Austin's bike, they were like a bunch of excited boys.

Maracaibo has a bridge, a very long 8km bridge, the longest bridge in S. America and the longest concrete bridge in the world. We were really excited about the chance to ride the bridge, but when we got there, the police stopped us and wouldn't let us cross. We ended up having to load our gear and hitchhike across the bridge to the other side. It would surely have been an amazing experience, but hey, you don't always get what you want, eh?

On the other side of the bridge we start going the wrong direction and didn't notice for about 10km. Then we started heading back and it started getting dark when suddenly a motorcycle pulled up next to us and offered us a place to sleep. We camped in his garden then walked to his workplace, just a couple km down the road, and were treated to a wonderful dinner. In the morning he arrived after working all night with bread and gave us a huge bag of plantains and two giant papayas. From there we finally got on the right road and headed towards Coro, the capital of the Falcon (a state of Venezuela). On the way we stopped in quite a few farms and villages to pass the night. Always we were welcomed warmly and more often than not we were given coffee, food, and showers. One house we were at was right along the highway and I was out testing the strength of the trees when I broke a dead one right at the base, oops. I felt like a complete asshole, but the guy didn't really care and the tree was completely dead anyhow, so maybe I actually helped him somehow. Who knows.

So, just before getting to Coro, we got news that Punto Fijo, a place highly recommended to us, was just hit by a tornado. We didn't know what to do, so we just kept on going to Coro and to make a decision later. On the route we stayed at a small village's church with pretty much the whole village there to greet us, feed us, feed us some more, give us showers and gifts, and to feed us yet again. Also, on the way there, Augustin found some really fresh roadkill (a young goat) and quickly and expertly cut out a leg and the tenderloin. Also along the route we got some free melons, spaghetti, icies, and cold water to drink (which we really needed since it was over 40 degrees Celsius that day).

So finally it was the day that we headed off to Coro. On the way we got interviewed for a newspaper and had our pictures taken too. It was the start of a weird day, let me tell you. So, off we went to Coro and ended up staying at the Bomberos again. They let us use their kitchen and fed us a little bit. We were there early enough in the day to have time to go explore the city. I headed into town and checked the place out, did a little bit of black market trading of dollars (you get double the value compared to the official rate), and finally had time to get on the internet. That night was terrible though, the mosquitos were intense. I ended up leaving my hammock (they bite from underneath, the only problem with the hammock so far) and went to sleep in the dining room which had the AC on full blast. I finally busted out my sleeping bag, which I hadn't used since Mexico.

The next day we were woken up at 5:30am by Austin. We were all really quite pissed that he woke us up so early. We went and bought a news paper but we weren't in it. We headed out of Coro heading to Adicora, a beach highly recommended by the firefighters as a good place to go where we could camp on the beach. It was a truly grueling ride out there. The wind was intense, the sun was blazing hot, and there was nothing but shrubs and really distant mountains to the left. But it was also kinds fun because of the brilliant blue and green and orange lizards running along side the road and at one point we had a heard of probably 50 donkeys running alongside us. It was really fun but hard hard work.

We got to Adicora and headed straight to the..... beer. We drank a few until we could feel it then we went to the beach. It was incredibly windy there, as I heard it is all the time. We met some people on the beach and had a nice few days with them. Camping on the beach was hard though because of the wind. On the second night Austin built a wall to protect him from the wind and because of that wall, my hammock was getting buffeted from underneath all night long and I couldn't sleep. As the early dawn approached, I moved my hammock and found a place a little more sheltered from the wind. I think I had about 45 minutes of sleep before Augustin came and woke me up with the day's newspaper and we were on the front page along with a full page within (look in the photo album).

The newspaper article made us instantly famous in this small village and people came to talk to us all day long, even when we were trying to cook some food. Austin and I hopped on a bus and went to Punto Fijo so he could buy a camera (it's a duty free zone there in Punto Fijo) and I could buy some sandals. My sandals have been dead since Mexico, fixed multiple times but nothing really really good, and finally, after more than 3 months asking at almost every shoe store we went to for sandals in size 47, I found a pair. It really made my day! And now we have a camera too, well Austin does anyhow. There are some pics up now and there are more to come. While walking in the streets of Punto Fijo many people recognized Austin from the paper (he has a closeup picture of him with the article). We were really the Estrellas de las Bicicletas (bicycle stars).

That night we all ended up camping were I put up my hammock, away from the wind and we had a roof over us too. The next day we headed back to Coro. About half way we were expecting a bar we stopped at the other day to be open. I was really looking forward to getting a beer or 5 in me. It was hot as hell again and the wind was even worse than last time. We were all going slow, even aerodynamic boy (Austin). Well, the bar was closed so we went on to Coro. There we were interviewed by the TV news but we don't know if we ever got on the air. Then we tried to go to a sports center to see if we could sleep in the football field instead of going to the Bomberos again, but no luck. So off we went to the Bomberos, we were gifted a bit of grass on the way, and were welcomed to the firehouse as celebrities. It was funny, really funny. That night we all slept in the freezing cold dining room (free from mosquitoes).

The next morning we decided to wash our bikes since the last bit of the road from Adicora took us through a sand storm and there was sand within all the moving parts of our bikes. Austin took forever, more than three hours, which drove us crazy. We always seem to be waiting for him. Well, we started on our way to Chichiriviche and Tucacas. Before we even got out of the city, the trailer broke again. Augustin got it fixed and we were on our way, really late. We stopped at a dig-site on the way and saw some mastodon bones in Taima Taima. From there we started looking for a place to camp. We asked at a few places and got a few no's and then Augustin's chain broke. I stuck around with him while Emilio and Austin looked for a place for us to camp. We ended up at a little farm and they gave us a mountain of food to cook including a gigantic squash, fresh peanuts (yum) and bowl full of eggs, and more. We ate like kings, but I slept like shit. I actually didn't get any sleep at all. The post my hammock (and Emilio's too) wasn't strong enough for the two of us and when I went to sleep the hut we were in started to shift. So I slept on the dirt, got rained on, and was on a really strange incline.

I also found out that day that my back rim was starting to die. I've had a weird click click for a few days and couldn't figure it out until I cleaned the bike and found a huge crack in it. Gotta replace it, but finding a rim, size 700, is fucking hard where everyone uses 26inch or smaller mountain bikes.

The following day I called my mom for her birthday. She'd just gotten back from Israel where she was visiting her sister who had just been widowed. It was nice to talk to mom, haven't heard her voice for a long long time, probably since May when I called dad for his b-day. The last beach before having to go inland was at Tocopero. We got there, had a few beers, a few more beers, then headed downhill really really fast for 5km to the beach where we met some people who bought us more beer to drink. I was so tired I went straight to sleep. The others kept drinking with the locals and we got an invitation for the next day for a village fiesta nearby. So off we went, it wasn't very far away, got there early, had nothing to do until the festival started, and then found out that the festival really kinda sucked. But hey, we got some free beer and food :)

The next morning was raining so we weren't in a huge rush to leave. When we finally did, we had a huge downhill ride and a huge expanse of plains ahead of us. It was into the wind but it wasn't all that hard. Austin and I smoked a joint and we were flying down the road with smiles on our faces. We ended up in Mirimire sleeping at the baseball diamond. Austin decided to go for a walk and didn't return until about 4am, totally drunk. I went right back to bed and in the morning we found him passed out on the pitcher's mound (we were all sleeping under the bleachers). It took him forever to get going and we were all a bit annoyed with how much time all of us wasted waiting for him these last few days. Well, we left and went up the road, a long uphill climb, and on the top we waited and waited for Austin to catch up. While there we were treated to arepas (traditional food here, try it) and lots and lots of free beer! It took Austin a long time and I thought he was probably hung over and puking on the side of the road. But when he finally arrived he had a big smile on his face.

We cycled on to Chichiriviche, stopping for a short time in San Juan de los Cayos for a swim. In Chichiriviche we ended up staying with the public service (emergency medical dudes). We again got free food and a free safe place to sleep. But we were there for a really really fucking long time. 3 nights, and I didn't enjoy myself. We did nothing while we were there, and there was nothing to do. We washed our clothes and that was about it, for THREE days. And Chichiriviche is not exciting or beautiful at all. But on the ride in and out of there we passed by a billion ping flamingos (real ones mom).

After Chichiriviche, we headed to Tucacas and Morocoy National Park was on the way. We went to the park entrance and some guy, Ricardo, met us on the way. He gave us a free speed boat tour of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen in my life! Pieclas, Boca Seca, Sombrero, and Mero. It was really truly amazing to be there, and the ride out there was amazing, swerving through routs through the mangroves and arriving at coral protected beaches. Wow, if you go to Venezuela, go to Morocoy!!!! And if you are really lucky, meet a guy like Ricardo who will give you a free boat ride.

In the dark we all cycled to Tucacas and slept at the Bomberos. Austin took all the last of the money we had and bought rum. I was tired from all the sun and swimming and didn't even enjoy a single drink.

From there we went to Puerto Cabello and just as we got to the city, the trailer broke. But while waiting to figure out how to fix it yet again, we were interviewed for a newspaper yet again (look in the photo album). The newspaper people gave the trailer a lift to the Bomberos but they didn't want to put us up for the night. We were really stuck for a long time. We really couldn't go anywhere because the trailer was broken and it looked like it would rain any minute. Emilio and Austin took off to try to find the Civil Protection people, but when they got back they said it was far far away and not a really great place to stay. After that I ended up find us a place in the office of somebody running for mayor of the "Ya!" party. They were using the space to put stickers on cars and they let us use the space for the night.

The next day I changed all my cables, they were really quite old and changing cables on a bicycle is one of the best ways to improve performance. Augustin spent a few hours working on his trailer and got it fixed, and Austin took three hours to change one cable. By the time we left it was already getting pretty late. We went to the newspaper office and got a free copy of the article, again a full page, and got on our way. We ended up cycling to the highway to Valencia and the police stopped a truck for us to take us up in the mountains to Valencia. There we contacted a couple people from the political hangout and met with them for a little bit. Then we headed into the city where we went to an air conditioning workshop of a guy we met while we were cycling the day before. There were cases and cases of beer for us, loads of tools for us to use, and all the space we'd ever wanted. We stayed for 3 nights.

Valencia was fun. I made sure to get out and check out the city while on the other hand Augustin never really left the workshop. After Valencia we headed to Maracay and slept in a park protected by the police. It was an ok place to stay, nice and quiet. Early the next morning we got on the road again towards Caracas. We made it as far as Paracoro, which is probably the closest village before the suburbs begin. There we slept in a park again, but really close to the road. It was an alright place.

But now we were just a short 35km ride, almost entirely uphill, to Caracas. This day my rim finally broke and I was missing a spoke and could never replace it. I have to buy a new one. The last little bit of the ride we had a nice motorcycle-cop escort who was surprised at how fast we were going, especially downhill through the cars and into oncoming traffic when needed. What usually takes about an hour in a car we accomplished in about 20 minutes. I love riding my bike!

Well, my experience in Caracas has just began. Actually we are staying in a suburb up in the mountains called San Antonio. But I'll write the story about Caracas some other time. The keyboard is starting to smoke and you are probably tired of reading, if you even made it this far. Sorry the story is kinda bland but hey, I was riding a bicycle, I saw beautiful and ugly things all over the place, and my ass hurt after a few hours every day.

So, what are things like now (I guess I should end with a bit of how things are). Riding is fun like always. Meeting people and staying in strange places really really really is amazing. You find yourself in all sorts of great situations. But some things are starting to get old. I couldn't tell you how many hours Augustin, Emilio, and I have spent waiting for Austin to load up his bike. We want him to go quicker, but he doesn't. Also another thing about Austin is that he rides like an idiot quite a lot. For example, he was riding on the highway while it was busy in traffic while we had a huge shoulder to ride on. Hey, even the motorcycles weren't going into traffic, and he's on a bicycle that is REALLY hard to see. Also, as far as a group dynamic of four cyclists, Austin made things a little harder for us. Sure I was relying on Augustin and Emilio because of their Spanish, but I tried many times to accomplish the same things they were, and I actually did really quite well (my Spanish improved a lot traveling with them). The plan for us four was to go to Caracas. After Caracas everything is up in the air. I don't know where I'll go next or with whom. Buy hey, I've got two wheel (well when I fix the broken one I have two wheels) and all I need with that is a road.

Peace,

Perry



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