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Posted by: perry on 09/16/2008 04:15 PM
Updated by: perry on 09/16/2008 04:16 PM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
Cartagena, Colombia
When we finally arrived in Colombia, we found ourselves dropped off in Cartagena de Indias, an old colonial city from the spanish empire with a fort, castles, plazas, and a city wall. We only got 60 days to spend in Colombia and we hoped to head south to Equador, but plans go out the window more and more lately. Read more:
In other news, the website has moved to a new server and probably nobody ever noticed. I also changed a few small thinks on the website that nobody will probably notice too. One thing I did was add a new link on the top left for comments. So now I have a general comment page that I would love for everyone to abuse.
So, we arrived in Cartagena and headed into the old historic center to find a place to sleep for a night or two. We ended up finding a place called the Hostel Pirata (Pirate Hostel) because we could sleep on our camping pads on the floor for just about $4 per night. It was there at the Pirata that we ended up making quite a few friends. Lucianna, Chelo, Annabel, Stephanie, Chloe, Adi, Leo, and other travelers and artisans were staying there at the same time and quickly invited us into this really neat and small community. Also, for the first time in a long time, we were really forced to try to use our Spanish. But it was really tough since many of them are from Argentina (which has a very special and beautiful accent - y and ll in words have a sound similar to the letter j in jest or joust).
Well, our main concern when we arrived was Austin's knee which was giving him trouble the two days we actually went cycling in Panama. We discussed going on a sort of training program but that quickly got thrown away when Austin's wisdom tooth started hurting on like our second or third day. He immediately went on a regular self prescribed pain relief program which left him in a mumbling state until he finally got the damn thing yanked. Afterwards he was on slightly lighter medication which he weened himself off of during the following week.
Since we had so much time on our hands and we really had to wait for his tooth to stop hurting (could you imagine trying to cycle in the heat with a throbbing hole in you jaw, I can't) we decided to go to Playa Blanca. Normally it costs 30,000 pecos (about $15) to take a boat to the beach, but we went the back way by bus, canoe, pickup truck taxi (which I didn't fit inside and had to hang onto the back of), and motorcycle taxi which saved us 20,000 pecos each (there were six of us going). We brought as much food as we could each carry, set up camp on the beach, and had a wonderful 3 nights with friends on the beach. Every day people came and went from our little camp, every night we had a fire. The water was beautiful and full of coral and all types of fish. I even had an un-thought-of wish come true and that was to be completely surrounded in all directions by a school of fish. I struggled to stay with them as long as I could, holding my breath to the limits and trying to match their changes in course. It was completely fascinating until I ran into a group of about 15 squid and just stopped myself to watch them and suddenly my school of fish was gone. There was also coral in many different colors and those flower looking things which quickly suck themselves into the coral at the slightest disturbance in the water. A real paradise.
When we got back to Cartagena we went back into the same old routine of doing nothing. Austin's tooth wasn't completely better either. I ended up spending a lot of my time with other people from the Pirata including some new people who had come. I really enjoyed meeting Miram and talking with her (she's from Berlin and we spoke german, when I could actually remember and get the words out of my mouth). Also I found out that every Thursday they were playing a free Hitchcock film in one of the plazas. I ended up seeing Vertigo and Rear Window. Unfortunately I missed The Birds which was the only Hitchcock film in the series that I haven't seen yet.
One night everyone in the hostel pitched in together to get a bunch of grass and we made a nice ganja cake. All of us got totally smashed, it was great.
About a week after getting back from Playa Blanca we met up with Spencer, another cyclist who's just come directly from LA to start his trip in Colombia. Well, we all headed out the next day for a small two night trip to a nearby mud volcano (Volcan do Lodo). Austin and I only took the minimal amount of stuff that we would want for a two night trip, which wasn't much. It was also a good idea to try to get back on that training schedule we had wanted. The first day out we had an amazing amount of wind pushing on us from the back. We flew down the coastal highway only stopping for two breaks. We ended up camping the night on the sea of the nearest village to the mud volcano. Unfortunately we were really close to a school and in the morning we were surrounded by tonnes of grinning and staring children.
The mud volcano was really cool. It's a constantly spewing pile of mud on the side of a lake probably about 4 stories high. We climbed up to the top, stripped down and jumped in. Amazing mud, it was the most buoyant substance I've ever been in. I tried to force myself under completely by pulling myself down at the latter and couldn't. We did cannon balls sending spouts of mud all over the place too. Lots of fun! The mud got everywhere and in every (EVERY) hole. After we got out we let the mud dry on us a bit then went to the lake to wash off. It cost 5,000 pecos to get in and Spencer and I paid reluctantly (it was expensive). Austin refused to pay and actually got away with it.
That evening we cycled to the nearby village of Galerazamba where we camped for the night on a much nicer beach. No annoying kids, nobody from the village coming and just standing there staring at Austin's bike and not saying anything. And we had a huge pile of wood for us to burn too. We made some stew and drank some beer. Spencer decided not to go back to Cartagena with us but instead to go on to Santa Marta to check out the sights there. Well, we decided to join him instead of going back to the Pirata like we'd told everyone we would.
In the morning it took a while for us to get started on our way from Galerazamba. When we were finally ready to start we ended up meeting a local guy who spoke english (he lived in NYC for a while). He took us on a little detour so we could see where the village harvests salt from the sea. Really cool. Then we were off and went to eat at a restaurant we'd been eating at the last two days on the coastal highway. After that we were finally finally finally on our way towards Baranquilla. It was a hard day cycling, we had the wind in our faces and it was fucking hot. We took a nice break on a huge beach which we had to ourselves. Then just before dark we found ourselves about 15km outside of Baranquilla in a place called Puerto Colombia. We headed into Puerto Colombia and found a cheap hotel for us to stay in for the night.
Puerto Colombia was actually quite nice in some ways and sucked a lot in others. Well, the hotel room was too hot and completely full of mosquitoes, which made sleeping all buy impossible. In the middle of the night I went into the courtyard, set up my hammock, and slept there instead. But also Puerto Colombia has a really cool pier with a sign which warns not to go more than 300 meters because of the integrity of the pier, Austin and I walked to whole 2km of the pier carefully watching out for holes in the pier the size of a dumptruck in some places. So surely it was dangerours but it was also quite fun.
Well, since we didn't get much or any sleep during our first night in Puerto Colombia, it finally caught up with us during the day and we all slept till about noon. Austin and I reconsidered going on to Santa Marta with Spencer because we both wanted to get back to the Pirata by the follow Friday since our friends staying there were going to leave and we wanted to be there for the going away party. Spencer took off in the early afternoon and I went on a quick search of Puerto Colombia's bike shops for a couple spare parts I could use. While looking around I got hit by a motorcycle and ended up breaking the motorcycle, nothing happened to my bike. The guy on the bike tried to get money from me to pay for the damage and I told him I didn't have any. We argued for a while but I just ended up leaving with a handshake. Then I was back to the hotel to find that Austin wasn't there. I went inside and double checked for damage (none still) and sat and read for a few hours hoping Austin would show up so we could get somewhere out of the city. Well it turns out that he kept coming into the lobby, seeing my bike, then going back outside. So we missed each other over and over and when it started to finally get dark I went out to eat. We ended up having to stay at the hotel again, this time a bit cheaper with one less person, but no better sleep. The clubs around the hotel were playing their crappy pop music until 4am.
Well, in the morning we were really motivated, despite the lack of sleep, to get the hell out of Puerto Colombia. It's a nice enough place but we just couldn't get any sleep while we were there. We headed back the way we came and actually at again at the same restaurant near the volcano and slept on the same beach as the day before. Actually we'd finished 50+km before 10:30 in the morning, ate our lunch and fell asleep at the table. Then we decided to go swimming before continuing on (we probably could have made it all they way to Cartagena in one day). But at the beach we both fell asleep and then later I get started drinking beer with the locals (they were buying, YEAH!). So we spent the night, which was interrupted by a huge rain storm causing us both to wake up and quickly put the tarps over our hammocks. Austin's hammock got soaked, I got away with just a few drops of rain in the hammock buy my clothes were soaked (no problem really).
The next morning we had breakfast and started on our way to Cartagena. It was a pretty descent ride except about 10km into the ride we started getting followed by a motorcycle. So we decided to try to go as slow as we could, and they stayed behind us, following us. So we timed a quick tight circle together to get behind the motorcycle and Austin ended up talking with them for about 20km. When we had the favor of a hill, we would go fast, when we didn't we would go slow, and the whole time these two guys would just watch us and talk to Austin (everyone just loves his bike). Later in the day when we were in La Boquilla, just outside Cartagena, we were flagged down by a couple guys who invited us to share a joint with them. From there we were both flying high and I really loved the rest of the bike to into the city against the wind (which would have sucked without the grass).
It was really nice to see all the smiling faces when we got back to the hostel. Not much had changed but it really really was quite nice to be there. We had a few days before the weekend going away party, so I basically did what I was doing the last time in the city... Nothing. On Thursdays now they are playing Kubrik films in the plaza and I watched 2001 A Space Oddysey. Also Austin and I went with Lucianna to La Boquilla and bought a nice bag of grass. On the weekend we all had a really nice time together. Sunday was the big party on the roof of the hostel. We all ate another batch of ganja cake and ate all sorts of stuff cooked on a grill. Yum!
Now we are, hopefully, on our last couple of days in Cartagena. Chelo, Annabel, and Lucianna have all left and we were originally going to leave today too. Maybe tomorrow we'll go.
Also we are starting to run out of time. We've got just 25 days left in our visa for Colombia and it's expensive to extend the visa for another 30 days. So, we are going to probably have to go to Venezuela instead of Ecuador next. So we'll be going the way we went last time towards Puerto Colomba. Then beyond in Santa Marta, Parque National Tyrona, beautiful beaches, cheap grass, and who knows what else. But I'm really getting tired of the coast and want to get back up into the mountains where it's a bit cooler. The beaches are nice but the water is far from refreshing, I usually take showers that are colder than the Caribbean waters.
Peace,
Perry
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DA
Posted on: 2010-06-11 04:03:53
By: Anonymous
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2010 South African world cups will draw apart the act, squareding Mexico from main South Africa in host in inaugurate war,Christian Louboutin this should be an all previous sessions to inaugurate to fight the flavor the most thin and a.South African Mexico in record in history this had to cross swords three times before,Mexico two Christian Louboutin Shoesare on taking the some advantage, the both parties crosses swords once recently is the gold cup match of the 2005,Ghd Straighteners Ireland with with invite ball team body a South Africa for taking part in a game 2-1 defeat Mexico.In addition this right and wrong continent ball team appears for the third time in inaugurate war,2 fields ：Ghd Ireland this front Cameroon with explode the cold defeating the champion Senegal and all.
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Mexico realizes a the way play main ball team in host difficult, in no longer than a month they arranges 7 appearance for warming up match hope can players promotes, from to Italian performance to see them to has come to a the best,nike dunk high at the same time two wounds disease member captain Karl Marx with center forward the elder brother harms to come out again more.The Mexican 《 world report 》 publishes the Mexican a hair in advance, the bishop practices the arrangement of the thunder has a little the strange , looking in such key compete he trusts very much old will, the 37- year old cloth section acquires a hair, but expresses in warm up match the outstanding shell pull with virtuous in south in all can substitute to repair.
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