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Posted by: perry on 08/19/2008 02:24 PM
Updated by: perry on 08/19/2008 02:24 PM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
Bocas del Toro and Sailing to Colombia

We took our free flight to Bocas del Toro and stayed there a lot longer than we expected to. After that we went back to Panama City, got all of our stuff in gear, and started (and started again) on our way to get to Colombia. We ended up cycling across the country (a one day trip), then along the coast where we found a yacht toCartegena.

When we arrived in Bocas del Toro, we headed straight to the center of town to pick up a few groceries. After that we headed out of town along the coast looking for a place to camp. We kept walking and walking along a road almost touching the waterfront with thick jungle on the other side of the road. Just as it was starting to get dark we found a place to put up our hammocks. As soon as they were hanging the mosquitoes came out in swarms. So we are quick sandwiches and went straight into the protection of my hammock (the mosquitoes didn't bike me through the bottom, but it was really hot in the hammock and quite uncomfortable).

In the morning we woke to find that all the leftover food we had was infested with ants. We took our revenge by smashing a coconut on their colony. Three seconds later the coconut was completely covered by these little biting ants (man, those suckers hurt). Austin was still feeling pain in his ribs from either getting robbed or dancing at a punk show or both, so he didn't get much sleep. We spent the day at the nearby beach and took a $2 taxi back to the center to get more groceries. Again, as soon as it got dark the mosquitoes came out again. We quickly ate and I went into the warm shelter of my hammock.

On the second morning we decided to check into a hostel in town. Austin had two nights of hardly any sleep because of his aching ribs and the position his body was in while trying to sleep in the hammock. So we packed up our stuff and went to HostelHeike . Once there I traded my book "Car Camping" for "Around the World in 80 Days". I was lucky to find that book. I spent most of the day reading and talking to people from the hostel. In the evening I found out that someone had "Cat's Cradle" and would be leaving the next morning so I stayed awake late into the night rushing through the book. It was awesome, and I always look forward to getting another Vonnegut book.

On Wednesday I joined a group of people from the hostel and we all took a speed boat to Wizard Beach. It's a nice long beach with huge waves, especially then since the swell was up. I tried surfing, but never got on my feet. But I had a great time diving under the huge crashing waves or swimming up the crests and actually sometimes having enough speed (with my butterfly) to actually get my toes out of the water. It was also quite sunny (a change in the weather from the last 2 or so months). We all had a good three or four hours on the beach.

That night I noticed that there was Apples to Apples (a great card game) at the hostel and I taught a few people how to play. Then the Rum came out and we played for a while. I decided not to go out to the bars with everyone and ended up drinking with a constantly rotating group of people at the hostel, talking, and having an all together good time. When Austin and Rafi (agerman guy we met at the hostel) came back they has some grass. We went up on the roof to smoke it and after the second joint and all the rum I was done for.

The next morning started really really slowly. But in the afternoon basically the same group of people from the hostel went together toBocas del Drago (Dragon mouth beach). There the water was calm and clear with starfish, jelly fish, and schools of itsy bitsy fish all over the place. We all had a nice relaxing day on the beach. Somebody brought flippers and I tried them on and skirted across the top of the water doing my dolphin kick. One girl said I looked like a merman. By the way, I have to thank my parents for teaching me how to swim. The butterfly is still my favorite stroke especially after diving. I even went to bed early. But I woke up around 2am and went to the balcony to see who was around. There I met Caroline, the first girl I've ever talked to that I really feel thinks she's a princess. She kept on and on about how important her rich friends are, how she'll never ever go camping, and so on and so on. It was an interesting view into the world of the rich and snobbish.

On Friday I decided to just stay at the hostel and relax. I got a lot of reading done (still on 80 days). Austin went with Rafi andManu (another german guy we met) to Bluff beach, another one full of heavy waves. In the evening I joined everyone for happy hour at a nearby bar followed by going to a couple other bars and dancing and drinking a bit. I hung out with a couple girls from the hostel and talked most of the night withAvena (from Holland). The last bar for the night was Barco Mondito (ship wreck) where they have a dock out of the sea which is open above a ship wreck. Some people were swimming, I watched.

We were supposed to leave on Saturday and spent the morning just hanging out at the hostel. We went to the airport and checked in and waited and waited and waited. The plane never came from Panama City and was being worked on. So the airline bought us a hotel room and gave us each $8 for dinner. We needed only $4 each to eat and spent the rest of the money on pot. We met up with the people from the hostel and went to happy hour. But since the replacement plane was for 7am, we didn't stay out late.

On Sunday morning when we got back to Panama City, we got our bikes from the airport's storage area and went directly to the hostel we were at the previous week. We had to get on a waiting list, but we got in and ended up sleeping in the cinema again. In the afternoon I made friends with Joe and Catarina and we ended up having a few beers then going out to eat together.

The next morning Austin woke up early to go get his replacement passport and he was back before I even woke up. We grabbed all our stuff and started loading the bikes when I noticed that I had a broken spoke which took a long time to fix (it was on the gear side of the back wheel). When we were finally ready to go we said our final goodbyes and turned the corner on our way out from Panama. Well, we got just 2km before a one hour rainstorm washed away our hopes of going anywhere that day. Luckily we had a dry place to hide out during the storm. After the rain was over we went back to the area near the hostel but went to Hotel Colon instead (it cost less than half the price). Also, after just a 4km round trip Austin was complaining about his ribs so it's probably better we didn't get far.

So Tuesday was another one of the sit and do almost nothing days (there's been a lot of those kinds of days lately). Austin didn't want to start cycling again and so we stayed another night. I guess the highlight for the day was eating pizza (and it was a really really good pizza).

But finally on Wednesday we left. We did the 76km it takes to go from Panama City to Puerto Pilon on the Atlantic side of the country. On our way out of Panama City, the cops insisted on giving us an escort. We had to wait for the escort to arrive (about 15 minutes) and then it took us all of 10 minutes to get out of the city. Anyhow, we went through jungle, I swam in a waterfall, and we also had the joy of bypassing dozens of cars stuck in traffic because of construction. About 40km into the trip Austin's knee started hurting. But from there it was mostly downhill towards the coast, so we kept going. When we got toPuerto Pilon we started asking about a hotel. There were none. But somebody suggested that we go sleep at the catholic church, and we did. We got showers and then bought some groceries which Austin cooked up (but I could only taste thehabenero; the spice I could handle, but I didn't taste anything but that). It's so strange to sleep in a church.

In the morning and through until about 1pm it was raining. We hung out at the church going crazy waiting to leave. Finally we left and cycled the 33km toPortobello , the first of two possible ports where we could find a yacht going to Colombia. Well, we found one right away. The prices that we were seeing were for $350 each (expensive). They said they would take us for $250 each (still expensive but cheaper by $100). They told us it would be 3 nights and that we would leave on Friday evening. Well, they quickly changed their minds and left right away after a quick run to the supermarket.

So it was us, Ervi (captain), Dag (navigator), and Amani (5 year old boy). Immediately we noticed our mistake. We were traveling with a kid. Well, a quick summary first... We went all night to the SanBlas islands to Carti. The immigration office was closed. Then Ervi and Dag found out that if we stayed another night in Carti we would pick up two Slovenians to go with us. So went spent a night in Carti . When they arrived, we tried to check out of Panama again, but the office was still closed. Then we went island hopping down the coast for a couple of days (one night with really high winds and great big waves). The Slovenians both were sea sick. Like looking green and everything. I must have had an upset stomach and took a small bit of Dag's cooking and quickly puked myself, but quickly felt better. I guess I was seasick too a bit. When we got toPuerto Obaldia , we checked out from Panama and started on our way to Colombia on a sea as smooth as glass and no wind at all. My bed was next to the engine and was really really warm. The last half day the wind picked up and we went full power (almost 8 knots) toCartegena . We slept in the marina and woke up really in Colombia. Dag wanted us to row our bikes to shore but we argued that we wanted her tomoore the boat because her little raft was too small for the bikes. Finally she relented and we got to go ashore and finally free from hell.

So, why was it hell you might ask. Well, the boat ride was nice physically. The islands we visited were great and we had dolphins swimming along with the boat at least 4 times along with seeing flying fish (they were really flying aloooooooooong way for up to 30 seconds I'd guess). It was also nice to swim as much as we did. But the hellish part was the 5 year old Amani and his smug mom who had absolutely no idea how to handle her kid. The boy was punching everybody, biting, standing on my hand with both feet, jumping on Austin's head while he was sleeping, and just really really fucking annoying. And mom tried to argue with him. Can you argue with a 5 year old to try to explain why he is misbehaving? Well, I don't think I can and Dag sure as hell couldn't. Amani didn't listen to a thing she said and the four passengers had to put up with the devil boy and mom's voice (one of the most annoying I think I've ever heard). I will never travel with a 5 year old AGAIN! The only relief Austin and I had was when we were discussing the different ways to dispose of the boy.

When we were finally in Cartegena, we had to meet up with Ervi, Dag, and Amani in the afternoon to get our passports back (it was their responsibility to check us into Colombia). When we met them I got to really feeling bad forErvi for being stuck with Dag and the boy. Also, Dag complained about having to clean up after us all the time and that we ate all her food. Well hell, we supplied more food than she did AND we washed our fair share of dishes and cooked too. I never want to see her again.

So, now we are in Cartegena. I really quite like it here right now. We've been here for a week and actually haven't done much of anything. I want to start riding, but on Friday Austin got a tooth infection and since it was a holiday weekend he had to wait until Tuesday to find a dentist and who knows how many more days until he recovers if he has to get his tooth pulled. We also don't know how his knee is doing. When he's finally ready to go, we'll probably do a small trip along the coast for a few days to see how his knee is doing. I'm getting really frustrated about the lack of cycling we've been doing. In the last two months we've cycled about 280km, and only about 430km since the rainy season started in the end of May (about 3 months ago). I'm tired of sitting and waiting too. But I think I'll be joining a couple people from my hostel to go toPlaya Blanca on Wednesday for a few nights. There at least I'll be able to do nothing in paradise.



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