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Announcements
Posted by: perry on 07/25/2008 04:24 PM
Updated by: perry on 07/25/2008 04:24 PM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
Mad Dash Through Central America
We left Guatemala City on the 15th of July to try to get to the capital of Colombia before the 26th so we could visit Arian, a friend of Austin's. We figured we should try to be there at least by the 24th so that we would have at least a little bit of time before she left to go back to Chicago. So, between Guatemala and Colombia are five countries and about 2000km. Read on to see how it went.
Well, actually we tried to leave Guatemala City on the 14th but only managed to get to the other side of town before it started to rain really hard and night came on. We ended up sleeping under a bridge, a bit uncomfortably and really not that restful. But early in the morning we got started again and cycled the rest of the way out of town (about 15km) and started hitchhiking. It took us 5 pickups to get close to the border and some people told us that just around the bend was a 10km downhill ride and then just another 15km ride to the border, so we cycled. After the border we kept on and ended having to cycle uphill quite a way before another downhill ride which was fun. We were cruising through Candelaria de la Frontera, El Salvador when I saw a water park and we stopped there and asked them about camping on their property. No problem and we also got to take a swim and have showers. It was also the first night that we were able to use our now hammocks. They are camping hammocks with a mosquito net and rain fly. They work really well, light weight, and it's even possible to sleep over a stream or on the side of a hill as long as there are 2 trees between 6 and 8 paces apart.
The next day we got started early again. We got rides quickly and actually made it across most of the capital without having to cycle. I had some friends in San Salvador, Catarina and James, that I wanted to visit but since we didn't have email access I didn't know if they were around, their address, or phone number. I found out later that they were there and I wish we had stopped by. But on the other hand we did end up making it all the way to Honduras, which cost $3 each to cross. After the border we got a lift from some press guy and he took pictures of us for some kind of health presentation he's making. He took pictures of Austin's ear piercings, our tattoos, and both of our hair from the back. Really strange. From there we went on hitching and got a ride in the back of an old U-haul truck all the way to Choluteca. Austin wanted to go use the internet and I ended up waiting outside for something like an hour for him. It was a bit annoying. Then he wanted to try to hitchhike further, with the bikes, in the night (it must have been about 10pm by then). Well, we didn't get any rides, but we did end up camping at a gas station and we found our first faults about the hammocks, mosquitoes can bite us through the bottom of the hammock. We didn't get much sleep.
On the 17th we crossed into Nicaragua ($7 each to cross) and found ourselves on a really shitty road with little traffic. The road would go from paved to dirt and back again every few minutes. But eventually we caught a lift then another and another which brought us to the far side of Managua, the capital. While riding through the capital we were amazed to find that black and red flags were painted all over the city and skate board drawn under the guys on the crosswalk signs. The city seemed to be full of anarchists (the black and red flags). From there we caught a pickup truck but quickly found ourselves stuck in traffic going nowhere for about 30 minutes due to construction. At the same time there was a huge rainstorm and we got soaked. But after the rain and wringing out my shirt (the water coming out black) we were on our way to Rivas, a short distance from the border of Costa Rica. We hopped onto our bikes and rode out of town and tried to hitch for a little bit but decided instead to go eat some food. The people at the restaurant were really nice, gave us showers and let us sleep in their garden.
In the morning it took Austin a few hours to pack all his shit. I sat there and drank coffee waiting. Then we quickly got a lift directly to the border. At the border we found out why there were so many anarchist flags in the capital. On the following day the country would be celebrating Daniel Ortega's Sandinista party's anniversary and something like one million people were expected to march through the city. Some guys at the border ended up trading an FSLN hat for a cheap plastic bracelet that Austin had. Crossing the border into Costa Rica took a while ($8 each) but was no problem. In Costa Rica there was almost no traffic so we decided to start cycling. Before we got to the first town, La Cruz, it started to rain really heavily. Austin saw it coming and I just thought that I heard a waterfall nearby. We took shelter under a tree, but that didn't matter at all. After we were both completely soaked and the rain didn't show any signs of letting up, we decided to continue on to La Cruz. When we got there we found a town with rivers for streets and a few rivers flowing right out the front doors of houses. We went and found a restaurant with hot food and ate two portions each. Later an Irish guy, Denis, joined us and we talked for a while. It was starting to get dark and Austin wanted to try to continue hitching, and we tried for a little while but changed our minds and went to the hotel where Denis was staying. We put up all our wet stuff to dry and talked with Denis until late in the night. He's also traveling by bicycle and we had lots of stories to share. Right now he lives in Bogot? and hopefully we'll go and visit him there.
We started asking about catching boats from Costa Rica to Colombia and some people told us that it would be possible in Puntarena, so that was our destination for the day. But first I had to wait for Austin to pack all his stuff up again which took 3hrs. Well, we were on our way and got to Ca?as just before it got dark. There we were stuck a bit and next to us were a bunch of semi-trucks which had to wait until 9pm before they could get back on the road. We befriended a couple, Isaac and Diana, and they offered to take us to the exit to Puntarena. We had a few hours to kill talking with them, only in spanish. It was a really good time. Then at 9 we found out that Isaac is a true road warrior and he flew down the road passing two or three cars or semis at a time. It was also my first time riding in a big US style semi truck. They are so much larger than the European trucks which have size limitations. It was Austin's first time ever riding in a semi and he was bug eyed and loving it. They let us off at the exit to Puntarena at about 10 and we cycled the 15 or so km into town and got a cheap hotel. We'd start looking for a boat the next day. The hotel was really interesting and we ended up drinking beer with a few people there. There was one lady we call dick grabber for obvious reasons and when she tried to sit on my lap I managed to get my hand under her and gave her a big revenge squeeze. Hehehe.
In the morning of the 20th we started looking around for boats but were told straight up that there we none in Punarena. Down the coast in Caldera there were boats but we were told they wouldn't take passengers and that they probably don't go to Colombia. So we jumped on a bus to the capital, San Jose, and from there found that there was an overnight bus from San Jose to Panama City. Since we had a few hours to kill before the bus left we went out for a late lunch (Chinese food), and later for pizza. We stocked up on snacks for the bus ride and smoked a nice big joint before getting onto the bus.
The bus arrived at the border about 20 minutes before it opened, we crossed into Panama ($6 each), got back onto the bus and watched a couple really shitty movies through the whole day. We arrived in Panama City at about 4pm, loaded up our bikes, and went out searching for boats to Colombia. You'd think it would be easy, but actually most of the boats are on the Caribbean side and take 5 days because they stop at San Blas and are not really just for transport. In Panama City we ended up cycling back and forth over the Bridge of the Americas, which was a bit stressful because of all the traffic on it. After we searched a bit more but no luck. Then we ended up talking with a shoe repair guy and he told us what he knew and that wasn't much at all, but he fixed my sandal for me for just two bucks. It was now the 21st and we were starting to think that it would be harder than we thought to get to Colombia quickly. We did a little searching on the internet and learned that it is possible to catch a flight from Panama to Puerto Obaldia, then a launcha (long speed boat) from there to the first port in Colombia, then bus it to the capital. It looked like we would make our goal. It was Monday and the next flight was Wednesday morning. Well, it was late so we went and found a place to put up our hammocks and slept.
In the morning we went straight to the regional airport (managing to buy a joint from some construction workers on the back of a pickup truck). We found out that yes, there was a flight the next morning, yes we could bring our bikes, and it cost $85 each. OK. So we had a day to spend. We went to the supermarket and bought some food and cycled around looking for a place to eat that was in the shade. Near the supermarket we saw a baseball diamond with covered bleachers and headed towards it. As we approached we heard lots and lots of dogs barking then a lady came out to greet us. Mati lives and works there and takes care of about 50 dogs, most of them she adopted off the streets. She's from Argentina and she invited us to stay, take showers, wash our clothes, and to sleep there. She even let us borrow a bat, glove, and ball and we played in the diamond for a while. It was probably the first time I'd hit a ball since I was 16. In the evening we cooked and ate together then all of us went to the cinema and watched Batman (fucking great film). In the night the dogs kept bumping into my hammock and every once in a while they'd all start barking. But I'm really glad that we stayed there and met Mati. She told us all about the travels she'd done including 5 different bike trips once from Mexico to Canada and back. But I think she's quite lonely and her husband is working in Argentina right now. She's been in Panama taking care of the baseball diamond for 4 years now. She said it's the slow season and only gets people renting the diamond once a week, which makes it hard for her to make ends meet.
So, now it was the 23rd and we had our flight at 10am. We showed up 1.5 hours early and repacked our bags for the flight. Then when we went to check in we got the news that we wouldn't be allowed to bring the bikes after all even though they said we could when we bought the tickets. We refused to leave without our bikes and the plane left without us. So, there would now be no way for us to get to Colombia on time. We asked them to buy us tickets on an international flight to Bogot? but they wouldn't. But we were in the right and they were in the wrong and they knew it. We were screwed. So, we got our refund for the tickets and they offered to give us each a round trip flight from Panama City to Bocas del Toro, a free night stay in a hotel, and taxi to the hotel and back. Cool. We had no chance to get to Colombia but we got a free trip to Bocas out of it. And while we were gone they would keep our bikes in storage for us. Yeah! We checked into the hotel and headed out for beer at a nearby German bar. After we left the bar we ended up in the wrong part of town and got robbed. I didn't loose much cash, they got my ATM card (easy to cancel), and I lost my lighter (not a big deal). Austin on the other hand lost his passport and ATM card. Neither of us got hurt physically. The passport is a big deal though. So we did the necessary stuff with the cops and didn't end up getting to sleep until something like 4am.
Our flight was at 3pm but Austin had to finish making his police report and apply for a new passport which took him all day. I took care of my ATM card stuff quickly and went to the airport and explained our situation and rescheduled the flight for Sunday. Then we went to another part of town and checked into a hostel where we'll stay until Sunday before leaving to go to Bocas Del Toro.
So, our mad dash across Central America, skipping many countries that we both would have liked to cycle through, to get to Colombia didn't quite work out for us. But now we are no longer in a great big rush so we will explore Panama a bit and continue on our way to who knows where in S. America. Were both really excited about cycling every day again since we haven't really been cycling much in the last two months. I'm really up for a week of solid cycling as soon as we get back from Bocas del Toro. There are many beaches to explore and places to check out.
Peace,
Perry
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Posted on: 2009-12-28 03:36:45
By: coco123
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Posted on: 2010-05-23 09:50:56
By: Anonymous
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Posted on: 2010-05-31 05:00:39
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Posted on: 2010-06-11 04:06:07
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Posted on: 2010-08-03 01:41:06
By: Anonymous
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Posted on: 2010-09-07 22:34:06
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Posted on: 2010-09-08 01:09:14
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Posted on: 2010-09-09 02:16:40
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