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Posted by: perry on 07/13/2008 05:23 PM
Updated by: perry on 07/13/2008 06:05 PM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
Guatemala: Antigua, San Pedro, Mayapedal

It's been a while since my last post. I haven't done much cycling in the last month unfortunately, but there are a few really good reasons for this, which you will see later. In the last few weeks I've been in Antigua, San Pedro La Laguna, and Mayapedal. In Antigua I took two weeks of spanish course, in San Pedro I took drugs, and in Mayapedal I hoped that I would help them out building bikes and bike powered machines. Read more...




We left Guatemala City on the 11th of June and didn't get very far before a pickup truck offered to take us up the hill to San Lucas, which is where we were going. We went there to visit a friend of Austin's, Lelila. We ended up spending a couple of days there before hitchhing down the mountain to Antigua to catch up with Ariel and her mom, who had come to visit her biggest baby (and she brought us some gifts too!).

The next day we all went together to a nearby volcano (Pacaya). The bus left us just 3km from the lava flow and from there we walked. When we got to the top we went into the lava field. I found a nice big stick and brought it with me. I used the stick to poke into the lava causing fireballs and actually managed to redirect the flow of the lava forever altering the shape of the earth (evil laugh). I also managed to light a cigarette off a little bit of lava on a stick, but just barely. It's so fucking hot near the lava that with a 2 meter stick it's already painful. Now imagine a 3 inch cigarette. Yikes! Another cool thing about the volcano were the cracks in the ground. You could look into them and see the black rock turn to red and finally just a glow. You had no idea how for down you were looking because it was all so bright and the colors on the bottom just melded together.

After we got back to Antigua, Austing and I went back to Lan Lucas for a night. Unfortunately Lelila wasn't there and we ended up just sleeping in her house for a night and saw her when she came back in the morning. We spent most of the day just hanging around and talking before riding our bikes down a really crazy road. In just a few km, there are three emergency ramps for cars who's brakes fail. Well, my tires were completely bald and I am riding on the puncture protection layer. Also, the road was FAR from flat, not counting the speed bumps. I couldn't got fast at all and ended up riding my brakes the whole way. Austin dive bombed the mountin and passed tonnes of cars on the way down. He's got shocks on his bike.

Well, in Antigua we checked into a hostel, Los Amigos, and ended up staying there for two nights before we started class. When monday came, we checked out of the hostel and brought all of our stuff to the school and had our first lesson. After class we didn't have a place to stay and ended up going back to Los Amigos, but to the second hostel they have (Los Amigos 2) which is more laid back and the people who own the place live there. We had use of the kitchen, free laundry, and cheap rent. It was a lot cheaper to stay there than with a host family, so I'm glad we decided to stay there.

My first week of spanish class went really well. My teacher, Poula, was really good and I learned a lot from her. Now all I have to do is study (I'm lazy, eh). During the week outside of class we hung out a bit with a british girl we met, Padora, who was also taking spanish course but at a different school (there are like 300 schools in Antigua). But most of the days I would just go home after class, since it was always raining in the afternoons and evening anyhow. I had class in the aftenoon from 1 to 6, and in the mornings I was going to school early to take advantage of the free coffee, internet, and tutoring as I did some extra studying.

On the first weekend Ariel came down from Mayapedal and her and Austin took off to go to a party in the capital. I decided to stick around and ended up spending the weekend with two Swiss girls (Danja and Amina) and a german guy (Christian). It was a lot of fun spending time with them. Amina would constantly switch between german, french, english, and spanish, all in the same sentence. It was mesmorizing listening to her, especially since I could understand most of it. But it was hard for me to follow the switzer-deutsch (bernish dialect from Bern). They borrowed my frying pan when they went to Pacaya and used it to cook bananas on the volcano. Cool, eh?

Danja and Amina left on Sunday to go to San Pedro La Laguna, on lake Atitlan, to go to yet another spanish school. We made plans to meet the following weekend after we were both done with our week of class. Austin came back on Sunday with Ariel and he decided that he didn't want to take another week of classes, so he left to go to San Andreas Itzapa and I stayed in Antigua for another week. But he also made plans to go to San Pedro the following weekend too.

So, my second week of classes were maybe more productive than the first. We whipped through present, past (both pasts), future, and comparative. At the end of the week I was translating from english to spanish and then comparing with the spanish that was already translated. I did alright and I'm quite proud of what I accomplished. Now I just have to keep studying so I don't forget (I'm lazy).

Also during the week I started going back to Los Amigos I to eat and hang out. There is a very tiny bar in the hostel which serves really really good and cheap food. The El Chillout bar was probably the best deal I could find for food in town. It also had a really nice atmosphere. My first time there I didn't really like it, but every time afterwards it was great. At the end of the week I met up with a couple, James (UK) and Catarina (El Salvodor). Catarina speeks fluent spanish, german, and english. It was great talking with her and she was complementing me on my poor german skills. But I must admit I can still communicate better in german than I can in spanish. It's just going to take some time and studying (I'm lazy). Well, James and Catarina wanted to go to San Pedro on the weekend as well, so we all went together early in the morning on Saturday the 28th after 2 weeks in Antigua. I was really happy to leave. Antigua is chock full of americans and europeans and therefore expensive and totally not guatemalan.

San Pedro La Laguna is famous in Guatemala for it's drugs and relaxed atmosphere. We arrived by boat from Panajachel and started looking for a place to sleep. The bartender from El Chillout, Tops, suggested going to Trippies and we did and it was a really laid back place. There was a kitchen and Catarina and I cooked a nice risoto with rice. The next few days were spent mostly just hanging out in the palapa (a small unwalled straw hut) smoking joints, drinking beer, and sometimes trying to hold a conversation with someone on coke or mushrooms or somthing else. Danja and Amina came by or we met up every day. It was a really good time, every evening a big dinner somtimes for as many as 10 people all together in the crowded palapa.

Unfortunately James and Catarina left after just two nights. And in the morning I woke up with them to see them off. Shortly after they left I realized that they forget their passports in the locker we were sharing so I grabbed them and ran all the way across town and just barely caught them before their bus left. I'm so glad I could get it to them before they took off. It would have been a hassle for them for sure.

While I was in San Pedro, it was San Pedro day. For the few days I was there before San Pefro day they were setting off fireworks. I went up to the main square in town to watch the big San Pedro Day Fire Show. Well, it was a steel tower filled with rockets and colorful exposion, but really poorly made. During the middle of the show the fuse went out and a guy climbed the tower the restart the fuse and amost got his head blown off when it set off a series of bright white sparks. We watched rockets misfire and shoot into the crowd and during the grand finale there were pieces of burning sulfer falling onto hundreds of people.

I also ended up meeting quite a few other people there. Most intesting were a group of Isreali's. Tse'ela, Ya'ara, and Stew. Also there was Holly from the UK. We spent a lot of time together and one day (Austin was finally there too) we all took muchrooms together. We went to the beach and went swimming, then we hiked a bit into the volcano among the coffee plantations and chilled out there for a while. Tse'ela had some body paint and we all got color on us. But most of all I just enjoyed my time with them.

We all decided to leave to go to Antigua together and took a shuttle. I ended up sitting between Tse'ela and Ya'ara talking to both of them and cuddling with one or the other or both. Wow. Later Ya'ara and I were talking about our moms. She said that she emailed her mom about me. I said something like 'oh no, how and I going to explain you to my mom.' We all ended up going to the El Chillout in Los Amigos I for dinner (yum! like always) and hanging out through the night. The next morning Tse'ela, Ya'ara, Stew, and Holly all went to the volcano and I stayed behind because in the aftnoon I left to go to San Andreas Itzapa. I'm sorry I didn't stick around another night to hang out with all of them. They were great company and my heart broke a bit leaving and not knowing if I'll see them again.

So, why did I go to San Andreas Itzapa. It's not really on the tourist routs. I jumped on my bike for the first time in weeks and did the short 20km ride quite quickly. Well, San Andreas Itzapa is the home of a place called mayapedal (mayapedal.org) where they build bicycle powered machines such as pumps, smoothie machines, corn dekernelers, etc... I wanted to build a bicycle powered hydrolic pump. There are so many uses for hydrolic pumps. You can lift, squeeze, seperate, all sorts of actions which need a lot of power. I though it would be really great to implement a log splitter, which is a very simple application of hydrolic pressure, but I never got around to doing it. Actually I didn't do anything during the week that I was there. Partly because I spent a whole day fighting a headache and two days following that just feeling like shit. But after that was over I was just not motivated to do anything. The people I met there that were also volunteering were amazing in many different way. Some of them were also traveling by bike and others passing through by bus. It was also interesting to be with Ariel and Austin with this group of people. For the past four months it's been mostly just us.

Austin and I have been waiting and waiting for a package to arrive from the US with new tires for me. Like I said, mine were way way way way past their deaths and were dangerous to ride on (nobody likes tires slicker than ice). Well, we finally got the word the the package was in the capital at our friend's mom's house. So, the next day we left mayapedal and (borrowing a couple tires from mayapedal which actually seem quite good but are a bit wider than I like) cycled to Guatemala City. It's the first time that I'd cycled over 50km in one day in over a month. It was a nice ride, especially the long downhill ride into the city.

So, now Austin and I are in Guatemala City. Ariel has decided to go by a different route than us, so now we are just two (and it also means we don't have a camera anymore). Austin has a friend from Chicago coming to Colombia in about a week so we are going to hitchhike through all of central america and meet her there. From Colombia we plan on going south. Who knows when we'll be back in central america to see the rest, and there is a lot more to see. I'm sorry that I'm going to miss it now, and hopefully I'll be back some time to see more and to go back to the places that I really liked.

In the last month I've been trying to fatten up. Cycling durring the first 3 months have left me really thin. At night I've been getting cold and I could tell I needed some more fat on my bones. While I was in Antigua I was eating 3 or 4 chocolate muffins a day along with great big meals. But nothing seems to work and my pants are still loose. I need to add weight and there is only so much cheese and butter that I can eat in a day.

I would write some in spanish now, but I haven't been studying in the two weeks since I left class (I'm lazy) so maybe the next post will have some spanish. I really like the language so far. It's an easier language than German, that's for sure.

So, my new tires are at my friend's house, so I'm going to go put them on my bike and go for a ride and test them out. Also Austin and I got some new hennesey hammocks which are 3 season camping hammocks. It's great since we had Ariel's mom bring the tent back to Chicago and these are really light weight, quick to set up, and it's possible to sleep on all types of terrain (mountain sides, over steams, whatever) as long as there are two strong trees or posts or something. I'm really looking forward to using them.

So, please leave a comment. I love getting them and thanks to Dana, Salvo, Joe, Diana, Jelena, and Andi for the posts recently.

Peace,

Perry


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