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Posted by: perry on 05/19/2008 12:30 PM
Updated by: perry on 05/19/2008 12:30 PM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
Chiapas

Austin and I went to Tuxtla to meet up with Gina. It was supposed to take just a day or two, but nope, it didn't. After that we went to San Cristobal to meet up with Ariel again and finally start travelling as a group of 4. We went through the mountains of Chiapas to Agua Azul and Palenque before heading to the border of Guatemala.


So Austin and I had a wonderful ride leaving from San Cristobal on our way to Tuxtla. It was about 20km of uphill climbling and when we were at the top of the world we were in a place where you could hardly see the next mountain in the distance through the haze and a huge valley below us. We smoked a joint and turned the corner to start what turned out to be about a 40km downhill freefall. We decided to take a bit of advise we'd gotten in San Cristobal and stopped at El Chorreadero. We got there two hours before they closed. It's a river which comes out of a cave with a waterfall. There were vultures flying around, birds and bats cruising in and out of the cave, lizards, huge tadpoles, and nice cold and refreshing water to swim in. By the time we got there we had dropped nearly 2000m in altitude and it was clearly a LOT warmer. After they closed we went downhill to the next village for dinner and found a place to sleep in a field. The next day we went back to El Chorreadero again and spent the whole day there (it was only 6km back uphill) and slept the night along the river in Chiapa de Corrzo.

By then it was Friday and Gina was arriving in Saturday. We went the few km into Tuxtla and found a cheap hotel thinking that we would only be there for a few nights before all of us heading out back into the mountains and nicer cooler weather. Gina arrived just as we got to the airport. She brought Austin's new recumbant bike with her. That night Austing and I stayed up until nearly 3am putting it together. It's a beautiful bike, but for some reason it came without one essential part, the seat. It's not a normal bike seat either so we couldn't just pick up one from any bike shop. We contacted Dave (the guy who ordered the bike for Austin) and he arranged to ship a seat. He said it would be second day, so we figured we'd just stay and wait for the part. Well, it took a week. Tuxtla sucks. It's hot and boring. We went to the movies twice to escape the heat. We also went to El Chorreadero again (Austin by bus) just to get out of the city for a while. We even went to San Cristobal for a few days to check out a concert powered completely by bicycling generators. Gina ended up staying in San Cristobal when we went back to Tuxtla for my and Austin's bikes and gear.

But we did finally go back to Tuxtla and the seat was there. On our first day we went on a short ride to Chiapa de Corrzo and slept on a boat launch. Then the next day was pure hell. We decided to take the autopista which connects Tuxtla to San Cristobal. We got an early start but that didn't matter. It was HOT! And austin was not used to the new bike and since it used different muscles, he tired easily. We were also eaten alive by gnats. It took us hours and hours to go up and up and up back the 2000m we had so quickly descended just 15 days before. I had to stop cars to get water because we were totally out, sweating buckets, and hungry and out of food. Under one bridge we shared an orange that I found on the side of the road (it was a hot orange). But we also had fun. At one point both of us were able to grab onto the back of a truck which was going just 15km/h and it pulled us a good 5km before our arms got too tired to hold on any longer. When we had about 20km to go (15 of it still uphill) we managed to get a lift in the back of a pickup truck which took us to San Cristobal. From there we went straight for food and had falafel. Then we went to the hostel, La Finka, and collapsed.

We had a few really great days at La Finka and San Cristobal after that. A few people who were there durring the previous weeked were still there, including three crazy spaish girls, a hilarias french guy, and some new people too including an argentenian. Well, despite being totally exhausted on that first night I ended up going out with the spanish girls for beer, but didn't last long as fatigue quickly took over me. The next few days were one continuous party and I ended up getting to know Ruth (one of the spaish girls) really well. We had a great time going through the city together. But the time in San Cristobal was also when we were finally a group of 4 together. Gina, Arial, Austin, and I. This is what I thought would happen back in Feb when I arrived from Germany. Well, it only took 2.5 months longer than I thought it would, but that's ok. It all worked out in the end.

But I have to digress a little. Gina and I went on a little bike trip together to El Chorreadero from Tuxtla (only 28km) and she was having a terrible time at it. She didn't even have a lot of gear on her bike. Well, that was just an indication of what was to come. When the four of us set out from San Cristobal together to go to Agua Azul, she was having an even harder time of it. I made sure to stay by her for a while and we ended up taking a break about twice every kilometer. At the end of the second day we ended up at a waterfall which we slept at. On the third day it took about an hour for her to go 4km, so she decided that she was done cycling. The group of four never really took hold and she jumped on a bus and took it to Agua Azul.

Auga Azul is amazing. It's an endless series of waterfalls, natural pools, crystal clear blue water, tree swings, cliff jumping, and free camping. And a little after we got there a guy that we met in San Cristobal showed up with his girfriend, two kids, and VW bus. The 8 of us ended up spending 3 nights at this little paradise, going for midnight swims, cooking together, and just basically having a really great time. Pana, Haydeh, Asherico (age 5) and Nogai (age 1) quickly became our friends. After Agua Azul we decided to all go together to Palenque. We were able to put Gina and her bike in his bus along with all our cargo so we could ride unencoumbered to Palenque (and good thing too because it was fucking hot).

Palenque was interesting. We stayed at a hippy campground which cost just 20pecos/person each night. But it was hot and humid. And I had an ear infection from swimming constantly at Agua Azul. But then again there were screaming monkeys in the trees above us, huge lizards of all kinds, tucans and other birds, and cool people to talk to and share in the mysery of the heat. One day I went with Ariel to the ruins and wasted my time because it was so hot and my ear was hurting so much and because they were boring ruins, that I didn't really like it one bit.

So, Gina had finally decided in Palenque that she would leave us and go on her own. She was using austin's old bike and now we had to find something to do with it. Austin ended up giving it to Pana (Haydeh and the boys are going to Spain on the 22nd and maybe he'll catch a bus and travel with us for a while, which would rock). So new we were three again. We started out from Palenque and after about 10km it was so hot and hard to go uphill that we gave up and headed back to a river to cool off until the evening. Then we continued on out way.

Actually the rest of our time on our way to the border checkpoint the Frontea Corrzo was spend cycling in the mornings (around 7am until it was hot), then in the midday hanging out next to a river, then in the evening continuing on our way until dark. We still got a lot of km's done, but didn't kill ourselves in the process.

One river we stopped at had really deep water and Austin jumped off the bridge which must have been about 10meters up. I was really wising my ear was good enough to jump too. It would have been great to fall from so high. But that place wasn't all peaches. When we finally decided to leave I was the first up by the bikes and I caught a guy stealing Ariel's pump. I ran after him and he ran into the woods. When I finally caught up with him, he had a gun. So I just walked away from him. Later he pointed his gun at Ariel. I just hope carma works.

Also one night we spent in the sports field of a small village named Emilliano Zapata (look up his name). It was actually a kinda nightmare. We were surrounded by a group of kids who would just stand there and stare at us for a few hours. Ariel went to hide in a tent and they just stood around the tent staring at her laying down. I stepped in some shit and had a group of 20 watching me clean shit off my shoe. It was really really fucking annoying. They didn't talk much to us, just stared at us.

Well, our last day in Mexico took us to the border. The road took us through a nice shadey valley and then down a really long decline with wide turns. I let go of the brakes, put all my weight on my feet, leaned my head far over the front tire and flew down the hill breaking my speed record. Austin, in his aerodynamic recumbant couldn't keep up with me even though he was pedalling. What a rush!!!!!

The border town is on a river and from there you need to hire a boat to take you 25km downstream to a Guatemalan village. It was fun trying to get the bikes, fully loaded, onto the boat. But we managed and we finally got out of Mexico!

Some of my most memorable moments from my time in Chiapas, in no particular order, are...

When we were cycling one day and I was far ahead of everyone (especially Gina). When I turned a corner the world opened up to me exposing a valley which must have been at least 50km across and seemingly endless. There I sat and watched the eagles flying around while waiting for the rest of the group to catch up so we could eat lunch. What a nice 2 hour break!

Spending some really crazy time with Ruth in San Cristobal (I hope I see her again) and her friend Vanessa (she might be even crazier than Ruth, but I'm not sure).

Jumping off the side of a waterfall and falling a good 5 meters to the pool below, then climbing out and repeating.

Getting to know Pana and Haydeh during our time in Agua Azul and Palenque (they son Asherico is really cool and fun to hand out with too).

Cycling through the jungle with all the biomass surrounding my heavily. I know I've got lots more ahead of me.

Camping near a military checkpoint and going back there after setting up camp and eating dinner then afterwards teasing them and trying to get them to give us a ride on their truck or to give us their hats.

All of the discussions that me, Austin, and Ariel had about Gina and what to do about her inability to cycle with us. We spent hours on the subject. We all like her in our own ways, but she was honestly not the right match for our trip. We've bumped into her a couple times since we went different directions and she seems to be doing alright. But I'm sure that all four of us agree that it's better that she not cycle with us. She didn't like it at all!

Well, we are in Guatemala now. What adventures await us, who knows.

Peace,

Perry



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[Reply ]

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