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Announcements
Posted by: perry on 03/30/2008 12:01 AM
Updated by: perry on 03/30/2008 01:28 PM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
El Estado de Oaxaca
We left Oaxaca City by bus to Mitla (just 47km away) to avoid riding on the autopista. From there we went to Hierve el Agua, rode over mountains with a view of the whole world, got to the ocean, and had an all around excellent time. Read on (there is a video)
We ended up filling the entire back row of the bus we took to Mitla and had to pay 100 pecos for the 3 of us and all our junk. As the bus approached Mitla some university students joined us in the back and one girl started playing a few songs on her instrument and bringing the mood way up. It was too late fore them to get to Hierve el Aqua, like they wanted to. So we invited them all to come join us a few km from the village where we wanted to camp. Three of them came. Laura, Rosaria, and Romero. We got 2 bottles of Mezcal and a bunch of grass. A local guy came by to greet us and said it was alright for us to camp there. Then he came back later with coffee and some food for us just as we were getting started eating what we just cooked. It was a really nice party at the foot of a mountain and a dried up river nearby. The moon was really bright and coming towards full.
In the morning our new friends left. We went into town to get breakfast then headed up into the mountains to go to Heirve el Agua. We left our stuff with the local that gave us coffee the previous night. It took a few hours going up into the mountains followed by a great downhill ride. On the way up we visited a roadside mezcal factory and they showed us the process. We also got to eat some cooked but cold agave. Yum! It's so sweet. It's cooked in a big pit in the ground for 5 days. Cool, eh? The last 4km of the road was hard to navigate because of all the big stones. I got jarred a bunch of times. But it was all worth it. Heirve el Agua is a mountain side natural cold spring with pools built into it for bathing. We were surrounded by many mountains and eagles were flying everywhere. I took a short freezing cold swim. The read my book or played with the bottle of bubbles I brought with me. we left a few hours later. Austin and I were both looking forward to the downhill on the way back. We love going fast. Well, after the gravel road and we started going to the main road, Austin?s bike died. Unrepairable without getting to a bike shop. He'd have to hitchhike back to Mitla and miss the downhill. I caught up with Ariel and told her the news. When Austin came by, the truck stopped and Ariel joined Austin back to Mitla. I came along for the rest of the way up the mountain. Then I raced behind the truck looking into by friends? eyes having a great time on the hairpin turns and keeping up with them most of the way. Watch a bit of it here (thanks Ariel for filming). I lost them on a little uphill climb but by the time i got down the rest of the way they were just getting on their bikes after getting them off the truck. We ended up sleeping at the same spot as the night before. It was very windy and we didn?t have the friends from the night before.
Before we left Mitla in the morning we had to go to yet another bike shop. This time Austin's rear cassette committed suicide. He got a new one, clips for his pedal, a watter bottle holder, and brake pads. From there it was uphill again, but this time going south. It took a while and finally we had a downhill where I reached 71km/h. But there was yet another big uphill before the great reward. We went downhill for more than half an hour. Austin and I try not to use our breaks much, but these cliffs were a bit daunting. But sometimes you would have a clear view of no cars coming from a long way off and you have the whole road to yourself. And the views were amazing.
We took a break at Totolapan for snacks, ice cream, fruit, and more water. We were told to look forward to a short uphill. So we started on our way and not too long after I noticed we had maybe an hour of sunlight before she went behind the mountains. Then I got a flat. Had to change the tube (it had many patches in it already and probably a few years old). We went up a bit more then turned around and went back to the last village and camped by the river we saw on our way up. We cooked dinner and Austin and I slept by the fire and soft sand.
The way up was actually quite a ways up. When we got to the top (Ariel was already ahead of us) we took a break. Then when we started going again Austin had a flat. He changed the tube because the hole was at the stem of an old tube. His new tube had a short stem and neither of our pumps going get a good hold on the stem to pump it up. Austin had to hitchhike down his second mountain. He was understandable disappointed. But it wasn't the most enjoyable downhill. It was too windy to go fast and there were lots of uphill climbs. I caught up with him in the next village and some guy managed to fill his tube for him. He was working on truing his front wheel while I took a break and ate snacks. He even hacked a coconut from a tree and bashed into it with the machete. It was ok milk.
We caught up with Ariel 10km later in El Gramal. She'd been waiting for us for 2 hours. We decided to camp there. We didn't make it far and we were a bit disappointed, but it turned out to be a great thing. In the village square were two trucks that i saw earlier. They turned out to be huge campers with german and french plates. We ended up sleeping, me in my hammock and Ariel and Austin in the tent. The french families were really cool. It was great to meet them and talk a bit about their travels with these huge machines and children. The village let us use the public shower and we all got clean. I had to hitchhike back to where i met up with Austin because I lost my map and it's waterproof case that snaps onto my handlebar bag. Well, I didn't find it. Oh well. It was cool to have but I'm not going to replace it.
During our late dinner we met a guy from a close by village. He gave us his number to contact him about getting some grass. He wanted to give it to us. Then Austin and I sat up drinking beer until we couldn't anymore.
We ended up leaving early. Then the guy ended up giving us a big bag, and I mean really big bag!!! Cool! We also got a few minutes on the Internet and I got a replacement part for my luggage rack (just a steel pole). Then we headed up the mountains. It took probably 2 hours of uphill to get to the pass. Ariel went ahead and Austin and I had a joint of the new stuff. Nice! Then the downhill... It was great. Tight turns and an amazing view. I saw nothing but mountain peaks to the horizon, each mountain looking like a giant below me. We went quite a ways down to the first peublita. Nobody we serving food really. So we went on and at another peublita we got some food and lots of packs of nuts. It was getting late and the hillsides were pretty steep. Arield and Austin explored one place, no luck. Then we went on looking. I thought I saw one and stopped. Austin didn't see I was stopping and rammed into me really hard from behind. Austing landed soft and I was just surprised to see him stumbling next to me still on his feet. But his fork was fucked. I ended up straightening it out quite a bit. Also his front derailer lost a pin so was also fucked but not that bad. It was dark so we decided to fix it in the morning. We all slept under the stars about 20 meters from the road. It was actually a really nice place to sleep. Today was great. I don't think I'll ever forget that mountain view and the ride down it. Not bad for my birthday, eh?
We ended up making Austin's bike single track in the front and bent his fork some more. We headed from there to the next pueblita for breakfast. Then we went downhill to Tequisistla to go swimming in the river. There were hundreds of people and all the kids were splashing in the water. A few adults too. It was easter, I guess. Well anyways we stayed for a few hours enjoying the water. Then it was off the Jalapa. There we got groceries and went looking for a camping spot. We found an empty lot and I went to ask the neighbors if we could stay in it. They invited us to use their garden, let us use their kitchen, and took us to some hot springs a couple blocks away. Afterwards Ariel stayed behind while we went to the center to check out the fiesta going on. The highlight for me was the bumpercars.
The next morning we went to the village market but didn't find a fork for Austin. But we did replace all his cables and got his fork tightened. Then we went through some hill and hit the plains to Tehuantepec. I was going really fast loving the backwind on a straightaway. In Tehuantepec Austin got a new fork from some guys who do repairs on the street. It was cool hanging with them and drinking beer. We met up with Ariel where she was using the Internet and we went to eat before cycling on a nice big fast road to Salina Cruz. We went straight for the beach and slept there with these huge waves crashing in the distance. It was quite windy but I was fine in my hammock. A and A couldn't get their tent up and slept under the stars too.
As short ride away was Ventosa which some locals said was a good beach to go to. So we went there and it was quite nice. Really windy though. We ended up squatting a beach hut which protected us from the wind. Some local guys came and joined us for joints and ate dinner with us. They told us that a few weeks ago two Canadian girls got all their stuff ripped off. Swimming was fun, but the waves were small and the wind made the water choppy.
The next morning the wind was gone. Swimming was nicer. Austin and I went to get some food and when we came back Ariel and all our stuff was gone, the hut too. But she was just a few huts away. She had to move all the stuff with the help of a local kid. It was his brother's hut and we could use it, no problem. He also took us to the nearby river with it's crystal clear water. It got windy again by the time we got back to the hut. I went to get groceries for cooking and everyone else started a fire and cooking what we already had. Dinner was great! TVP with veg on great tostadas.
The next day we all went to the river. Frist me and Austin. The river went down a lot overnight. It was deep enough at the edge of the river that we could do cannonballs. We took nice baths and played in the water for a long time. Then when we got back, Ariel went with a local guy. When she got back we packed up and went to Salina Cruz to get a bus to San Cristolbal. After we got the tickets, me and Austin met a guy who does tattoos at home. We went to his house but it was taking too long. I headed back into town to find Ariel and tell her we'd be late for the bus. We managed to change the bus to 2:15am. I went back to the house to find Austin twisting in pain. Half an hour later and I started mine. The pain wasn't so bad with me. Yasser, the tattoo guy, was really cool. It was fun meeting him and I hope him all the luck in the world with his art education and tattooing. We caught a cab and got to the bus station with 15 minutes to spare. The bus ride sucked. I ended up with the back row next to the toilet. My legs are too long to be able to sit next to anyone yet alone sleep. So i really had no other choice.
So that's my adventure in the state of Oaxaca. We met some great people, saw some beautiful parts of the world, cycled fast (downhill) and hard (uphill). The beach was great. There wasn't much to say, hey i was at the beach. We found shells. Now we are in Chiapas. We've been in San Cristbal for a night and will leave in the morning for Oventic to go to a language school so I can hopefully be better than now in spanish. I don't know much. I end up throwing a lot of german or italian words into my sentences. I hope I can fix that. I don't know the next time I'll be able to use the internet since there aren't even telephone lines there. I'm really excited about going to this school. It's taught by a part of the Zapatistas and hopefully I'll be able to learn something about them.
Peace,
Perry
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