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Announcements
Posted by: ariel on 03/27/2008 08:15 PM
Updated by: ariel on 03/27/2008 08:28 PM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
From Mitla to the Sea
We stayed in Oaxaca one more night and then took a bus to Mitla the next afternoon. A woman came on the bus with a guitarita with Ariel written on the top, and then during the bus ride started playing, Perry joined in with his little instrument. In town we picked up some food at a fruit market and ran into the kids from the bus again, Laura, the one with the guitar, Romiro, and Rosia. They were on break from school in Oaxaca checking out the ruins and Hierva el Agua. Rosia is on her way to visit a community near the sea that is fighting the privitization of their water which she is writing her thesis about. Since it was getting late we decided to all camp together outside of the village. We found a nice spot off the road with some trees and started to set up camp. Our set up was inturupted by a heard of cows, sheep, and goats walking though. Vicente and Ramiro stopped by from a neighborhood across the road to welcome us and tell us it was OK to camp there and that the people in Mitla are all really nice. After we were all set up and making some dinner and drinking some mezcal Vicente stopped by again in his moto-taxi invited us to his house to eat and told us how nice it was to meet new people and become friends and how welcome we were in Mitla. He left and came back a little while later with his daughters with coffee for us. What little I have, I like to share, he said. He also showed us a hut about one km away that was full of straw where we could sleep if we needed, since we only had the one tent and 6 people. Vicente was so incredibly warm and hospitable it's hard to believe how closed off people are from each other at home.
The next morning we left our bags at Vicente's house and rode out bikes up (UP!) 25km to Hierve el Agua, natural pools on the top of a cliff. We stopped at a Mezcal factory on the way (we passed about 20 on the way, the road is filled with agave fields and mezcal all the time now) and saw the process which includes a donkey walking around pulling a weight to crush the plants, and got to eat some prefermented agave which is really sweet, and taste some fresh unaltered mezcal which I liked about as much as I like any kind of liquor (not very). We finally got to Hierva el Agua and it was beautiful, there were about 3 pools on the top of a mountain with an incredible view. The water was very cold and we just hung out up there for the afternoon. Refreshed, we started to ride back (which strangely seemed to be uphill as well, sort of like when I was younger and had to walk uphill barefoot in the snow to and from school) and Austin's bike broke again so about half way there we hitched a ride in a pick up truck. When we got to the top of the hill, Perry got out and rode behind us which was fun to watch, I think he put up the video I took of him. When we got back we set up camp in the same place again, and Austin and Perry went into town for dinner, my stomach not having totally recovered I stayed behind to hold down the fort, literally, it was really windy.
In the morning we went to a bike shop in Mitla to work out the latest problems. I went to walk around for a little and Vicente saw me and picked me up in his moto-taxt and took me to get fresh OJ. We finally left town and it was uphill for about 15 km and the hottest time of day, of course. But then we were rewarded with the longest curviest downhill which was totally exhilarating, though I can't help but picture myself flying off Thelma and Loiuse style around some of those curves. Don't worry I plan on returning to Chicago in one (living) piece. We camped by a river and cooked some dinner. In the morning I took a dip which was great and we got some breakfast. I left before Austin and Perry to get a head start since I'm the slowest rider. I figured they'd catch up in like 10 minutes since it was a pretty hard incline but I ended up riding alone all day. I did walk my bike a bit since the uphill went for so long, it was hard biking and the hottest time of day again. It was actually really nice being alone though, going at my own pace, breaking when I wanted to. There were points in the day when I got nervous that I'd run out of water (because 5 km is a really long way if its all uphill in the sun) but I always had more than enough by the time I got to another pueblita. Finally, around 4 I stopped in El Gramal because I didn't know how long it was until the next town and figured they had had some problems since they hadn't caught up. I was starting to get nervous that I may never see them again and was trying to decide if I should look for a place to plop my sleeping pad or a hotel or something when I saw Perry zoom by almost 2 hours later. We camped out in the center of El Gramal, a town of about 800 people. Someone opened a shower for us which was great. Camping next to us were these to huuuuuge campers with 2 French families who had been travelling for 1 and 4 years, kind of hard to imagine living in a truck travelling around the world with you family for years on end. We got dinner at a little restaurant, I sort of had bean and tortillas and rice right now, my stomach still hasn't settled down, and talked to some people from El Gramal and some surrounding villages.
The next morning we went to El Camaron where we got some stuff in town. Then waiting until about 1 pm, or course, we headed uphill again, the downhill relief afterward felt way too short. We got some food at a stand on the side of the road and started looking for somewhere to camp. I walked through an agave field where Perry thought we might find a good stop but all I found were a million cactus to poke my legs. We kept riding and Perry stopped because he thought he saw a good spot and Austin crashed into him and totally fucked up his fork. So we camped right there, we were really close to the road but kind of hidden and we slept under the starts for the first night, so that was really nice.
In the morning we rode to the closest town and ate some breakfast. It was a really hot day and after riding for a few hours we took a break and some guys told us about a river near by where we could swim. We rode there, walked our bikes down a rocky hill and changed into our bathing suits. It was so nice to be in the water. As soon as I got in I was surrounded by a bunch of kids asking me a million questions or just staring. The most talkative were 2 sisters, Hanay and Isabel, they asked if Austin was a boy or a girl so I told him the Mexicans at our restaurant called him gre?as because of his hair and they wouldn't stop laughing. After a couple of hours we got out and rode to Jalapa, the next biggish town. When we got there we bought some groceries (pasta and sauce!) and looked for somewhere to out our tent. We asked some people if we could camp out in their yard and they told us that we were the 4th group of travellers who asked to sleep in their yard and asked if their address was written in a tour book or something. They were very nice, dug holes and put up poles for Perry to hang his hammock from and invited us in for coffee and yummy cookies, and let us make dinner in their kitchen. Then they took us up the hill to a natural hot spring where people bathe and wash their clothes. I wasn't really sure what to do because I they handed me a bowl and were just kind of standing there watching and I had all my clothes on and didn't want to be immodest or anything and wasn't really sure what they expected me to do. I ended up just bathing in my skirt and sports bra, the water was nice and it felt really good to clean up a little. I hung out at the house for a while and read and wrote in the tent while Austin and Perry went to check out the festival in town.
We were woken up by a million different kinds of birds singing to us. After our goodbyes we walked around the central market in Jalapa, ate some platanos sweet bread and fresh juice. Perry super glued a little turtle to my handlebars. Vendors in little stands have these obnoxious loudspeakers that they all use at the same time so there is this constant overlap of distorted broadcasting. Austin replaced some parts on his bike and I sent some mail. From there we made our way to Tehuantepec where Austin got a new fork. Practically every part on his bike is new now. After that we rode down to Salina Cruz, the closest ocean town. There were huge waves and we camped out on the beach. It was too windy to set up our tent so we just slept under the stars which was really nice, although I had a little trouble sleeping for the fear that all of our stuff would blow away.
In the morning we set off to look for a beach that wasn't as close to the city and were directed to Ventosa. It's a nice little local touristy spot. Lots of fish and beer restaurants but not much else, so I ate lots of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches which were delicioso! Perry got me a beautiful seashell necklace so now I really feel like a hippy tourist. I went swimming in the ocean which was amazing, but so so windy it was really hard to do anything. When I got out of the water the sand was being whipped at me by the wind and felt like shards of glass, it was crazy. We found a little home, a hut made of dried out palms that blocked the wind so we could put up the tent and hammock and relax for a while and cook dinner later. A couple people told us that it wasn't safe to stay there at night because of the bad people that come there who will steal all our stuff; apparently some Canadian cyclists were there a few weeks ago and all their stuff got stolen. At night we were joined by a bunch of guys who fish in the ocean, they were all very nice and we sat together and cooked TVP and ate. Freddie invited us to sleep in his house to be safe, but other people told us that we would be fine, so we decided to camp out. The moon rose around 10, orange and pink, really beautiful.
When I woke up I went for a walk along the beach, then came back and A+P went to breakfast. About 15 minutes later someone came up to me and started talking to me, but I couldn't really understand what he was saying. Then when he started taking down the tent and a bunch of men pulled up in a truck and started to take down the hut I realized that he was trying to tell me I had to get out. I was pretty frustrated and annoyed that I had to pack up and move all of our stuff in this insane wind that made it hard to even walk. But he, Usiel, helped me move everything over to his brother's hut, who wasn't going to be there for the next week. It wasn't as ideal as the first, but still a nice shelter, there were so many ants crawling all around everywhere, it made our kitchen seem pristine =). He told me the city got its name because when it was discovered they found a huge cross made of salt. I took a walk to a river about a kilometer or so away from our spot and it was so beautiful. There were lush trees and grasses all around, and clear blue sweet water that was the perfect temperature. On the walk there and back the enormous waves made rainbows each time they rolled in. Little crabs scrambled in to holes in the sand as we walked by. At night Usiel helped us cook on a table in the hut next to the one we were staying in and we made TVP tostadas. When Austin and Perry went to bed we were sitting there talking and a really drunk guy came and wouldn't leave and Usiel was being very protective of us, it was very cute, and sort of hard to believe that someone that drunk could actually hurt us. But I guess some trouble makers from another town nearby bother the people there at night. People have said that turtles lay there eggs there and come up on to the beach at night which was kind of exciting, but I felt bad that we might be disturbing their habitat. Austin saw a dead turtle head, but I didn't see any signs of them.
This morning I went back to the river with Freddie. It's nice to be the only tourists, but hard to get alone time when we end up being such an attraction. So I didn't get the private morning bathe and swim that I wanted but I did have some nice company. And there were a lot of dudes walking around near the river so I was glad to have some company. Today it is much calmer, not so windy. I swam out pretty far and washed up a little with some of Perry's natural soap. I washed my skirt I've been wearing every minute that we're not cycling but it was black again as soon as it dried. I also lost my comb so I am going to have dreadlocks before too long if I don't get one soon. I tried to use my water filter but the water was too salty from ocean overflow, so so far I haven't successfully used that gadget. It was so perfect, I could stay at that river forever, but it was also nice to leave and not be doted on constantly. After our goodbyes, we rode up to the center of Salina Cruz and got bus tickets to San Cristobal de las Casas for 11 tonight. We walked around the market, got some fruit and came to the city center. We met a tattoo artist and P+A decided to get their tattoos (vegetables riding bicycles) here. They went to an internet cafe to get pictures and the tattoo dude and I stayed by the bicycles and drew pictures of them to practice.
It has been a nice couple of days not biking around and lazing around the beach in my bikini. 3 days of cookies, PB+J, and TVP and my stomach feels totally back to normal, though I'm not sure this is the healthiest way to go. I've also evened out my tan a little so it's not just a t-shirt, shorts, and sock tan (Ok, I confess, the real reason I came down here was to get a nice tan). I am really looking forward to San Cristobal de las Casas, we will have a few days there before our language classes start in Oventic. I?m also looking forward to A+P learning some Spanish so I don't have to be the pretend translator--I feel confident enough to communicate a little with people but when I have to translate I really feel put on the spot and like I don't understand most of what people are saying. I guess we won't be biking for a while now since we will be in school there, but we may take trips on the weekend or something. I am still always sort of expecting that someone is going to kick us out of our camping spots at night because I?m not used to how free and open everything is here. Everyone is so welcoming and accommodating, it's really surprising and wonderful, sometimes even a little too much. So that's it for Oaxaca assuming P+A make it out of the tattoo parlor alive and well. Chiapas is next, time to learn some Spanish and revolution.
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Posted on: 2010-01-06 00:45:00
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Re: frank
Posted on: 2010-01-19 03:51:01
By: Anonymous
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Posted on: 2010-01-22 21:36:39
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