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Posted by: perry on 03/17/2008 10:45 PM
Updated by: perry on 03/17/2008 10:45 PM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
Ariel and Austin arriving, Mexico and Cycling el estado de Puebla
Ariel and Austin got to Mexico on the 3rd of March. We spent a week in Mexico City together along with a week cycling through the deset mountains of the state Puebla. Finally the trip is starting to take shape (even though I'm not). It took a while to get on the road leaving from Mexico City and our daily distance is far less than we expected due to many mechanical problems. Read on...
So, Ariel said she'd be in Mexico around 3:15ish. OK. I could meet her and then pick up Austin coming in on a flight from Houstin at 4:40. Well, I waited over an hour waiting for Arield and she never showed up and I didn't know more than the 3:15ish. Austin's flight came to a different terminal, so I went to get him (his flight was late by about an hour). While waiting I got to borrow a laptop and check my email and Ariel's mom sent me more flight info and her plane came 6 hours late. So, after more than a workday waiting at an airport where nobody can give you any correct information on the arrival time of a late plane. we finally got to go to Ivan's house. We ended up having to take a taxi because we couldn't brink Ariel's bike on the subway. Austin didn't come with a bike. When we got to Ivan's house we finally opened the bottle of vodka that I brought from poland at the beginning of Feb. Yum! Polish Vodka.
Well, we spent most of the next week walking around the city like visitng the Frida Carlo house and checking out the temples in Teotihuacan (the pyramid of the sun and the moon). But for me it was about the following week when we planned to start cycling. I still wanted to get some supplies and Austin needed to get a cheap bike until the one he ordered arrives at the end of March. We ended up getting a bike at a roadside taco stand from the owner. We spent a lot of the next few days looking for replacement tires, new brake pads, spokes (and spares), tubes, a back rack, a huge milk crate for the rack, and repairing the bike to the best of our abilities. I got a mosquito net that I hope to figure out how to use with my hammock and some other odds and ends. Austin's bike was $35 with $35 of new parts (well, it's a temporary bike).
But we did have some adventures. On the Saturday before we left we went to the Chopo Market (the punk and alternative market of Mexico City). There was live music all day long (with people in the crowds smoking us out). It was mostly good and some bad music. Well, the worst of the music was a Dub DJ who couldn?t get his equiptment to work right and had trouble finding the right tracks. It sucked. Halfway through the bands Ariel took off with Joel (another traveler who was staying with Ivan for a couple nights) and they walked around the center. Austin and I and a girl we met at the Chopo Market left after the concert in search of food and then went to Salsa lessons with Ivan. Ariel and Joel were there waiting for us. It was a lot of fun. and after we had to eat again. Then we went back to the Chopo neighborhood to see Polka Madre. The opening acks were ok but when Polka Madre got on the energy went up! The dancing never stopped. They are starting a US tour, so I suggest you see them (and tell me what you think). To get back from the Chopo we ended up taking a VW bug taxi with Joel, Ivan, and Ariel in the back seat, me sitting on the floor of the missing front seat and Austin sitting on me, all with a plastic milk crate in the area under the dashboard (no room there). We couldn't stop laughing.
But finally Monday we got on the road. We left Ivan's place at 8:30ish and got a bite to eat around the corner. Then we had a hellish ride into oncoming traffic for something like 2km to the central bus station. We took the next bus to Peubla (I didn't want to try to cycle through Mexico City. I don't think we'd get out in a day. Puebla was nearby and only cost us $12 each. From Puebla we cycled trough the center and it's a cool place. Austin's bike was more wobbly than we thought. He didn't have good nuts holding the rear rack and a heavy load. And his bike frame was crooked and the rear wheel was far from being balanced. He even managed to smash into a rearview mirror but it just snapped right back on. We got out of the city heading to a quite large looking lake on the map but found out it's a dirty swamp. And besides austin rear tube completely blew out. We ended up staying with a guy we met on the street. And while Austin was out looking for a new tube, I balance his rear wheel.
The next day we headed east through rolling hills. Some were so steep we walked. But it was a fun first day, especially going fast back downhill. Austin's bike rode better but his load is so heavy. I couldn't imagine riding his bike. For one really nice long section we were lucky to meet some guys who smoked us out. We had a great ride although it was into the wind and almost always uphill. We made it a goal to get a bag soon. We ended up caming on farms the next 3 nights and riding through some amazing countryside from the platoe we were on into the valley below. Sometimes the downhill ride would last a 40 minutes coasting through villages and passing cars in the oncoming lane while they slowed down for speed bumps. My front and back tire were in the air several times. Outside the villages we were riding through a panoramic view of mountains to the right, a valley and other huge mountains to the left, and many small barren platoes in the middle of the valley with a constant dust clowd floating off the tops (now I can see how the wind causes erosion). The wind was in our faces sometimes (and eroded me that way) and other times was behing us making it feel like we were going a lot slower than we actually were. I could never really tell what the end of the valley looked like. It seemed to never end. What a great panaramic view.
Austin's back tire got worse and worse and finally it blew out again. He went and got a new one, but by then it was dark and we went to camp for the 3rd night. We bent his frame back in place a bit (by jumping on it with a brick under the rear wheel axel. Then the next morning we went back to the bike shop because the rear wheel he got had a bad hub. The guy at the shop rebuilt it while we had breakfast. Now it was a nearly straight and a far stronger back wheel totally rebuilt from the best of two used wheels. The new wheel lasted a day and taco'd about a km before the border of Oaxaca. He hitched with his bike and his stuff to Teotitlan (about 5km away). He spent a few hours looking for a new wheel and didn't find one. We decided to spend the night. There was a village festival and school pagent. It was a lot of fun. Then when we got back to the hotel Austin and I started un'tacoing his rear wheel so we could try to sell the bike the next day. I admit we got that wheel functional and looking quite good and sturdy. But we didn't find anybody to buy it the next day so we just took a cheap bus to Oaxaca where we would have better luck getting a new wheel or selling the bike and getting him a better one.
The bus ride to Oaxaca was simply beautiful as we hugged the serpentine road first going the rest of the way down the valley and then going up, up, up, up, up, and up some more. I know I wouldn't have liked riding that by bike. We got to Oaxaca in the evening and while Austin and Ariel were using the internet, I hunted for a cheap hotel. We hoped to leave the next day (Sunday) since it was already late when we arrived. Well, we didn't find the bike shops on time because Austin and I tried to find bike parts at the flea market (none found, but we picked up a pocket knife, silverware, and a small grill rack the size of our pan. That evening there was a city party in the center. Ariel wasn't feeling good so stayed at home while Austin and I checked out the live music (it was fun) then we went to a bar we passed earlier for open mic and a few beers. There was really great flamenco guitar.
So, on Monday we finally got some good strong double walled wheel for his bike. Now his bike looks really great. It's a pretty beat up frame (mixture of blue and rust) with kick ass new wheels (red) and red taped handle bars. He tried it out for a while today without a load and he said he can feel that the bike is much stronger. Tomorrow we leave Oaxaca (again by bus) to Mitla and then we'll continue cycling from there. I hope Ariel feels better because even though we won't have to ride 45km along the autopista (highway), we'll be heading uphill quite a bit (I think). But something like 30km later we'll be at a place that's supposed to be amazing.
My bike has had a flat which I patched then the patch failed becuase a rock was stuck in the tire and wore through it. So I got the rock out, rotated the direction of the newly patched tire, and it's working just fine. But I wonder how much more abuse I can put my bike through. I ride it fast, probably too fast for many of the potholed downhill races. Just coasting down one hill I got to 60km/hr and maintained enough speed to get over the next small hill without pedaling. What a great feeling. But there is one problem with my bike that I really look forward to fixing. My kickstand broke. I want a new one. It was a really strong kickstand and could hold my bike with a full load. I've contacted Giant and they told me how to order one.
Oh, and Austing and I got that bag. It probably won't last that long. And when he got the new wheels for his bike, we went to the flea market with the old ones and traded it for a machete (it's made in El Salvador and it's not a full size one, but I think it'll be useful).
I'm really looking forward to getting to the coast and sleeping in my hammock by the ocean. Pi?a Colata anyone?
Peace,
Perry
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