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Posted by: ariel on 03/17/2008 02:49 PM
Updated by: ariel on 03/17/2008 02:49 PM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
From Puebla to Oaxaca
We took a bus to Puebla to avoid riding through Mexico city traffic. When we got there we did some bike adjustments and rode through the center of the city. Riding behind Austin with his rack on wobbling all over the place brought back memories of riding around Chicago with him on some crazy messed up bike and I couldn't stop laughing. When we were weaving through the streets he managed to take off a car's rear view mirror but luckily could put it back on, no damage done. The zocalo was very pretty with fountains and flowers and colonial buildings all around. We rode south of the city towards a lake Perry found on the map where we going to try and camp for the night. To get there we went down a really rocky steep road, Austin got a flat tire and got a ride up to a bike shop from some people who were driving back up the road. While we were waiting we saw some kids riding on a donkey trailer and a volcano off in the distance.
By the time he got back it was getting pretty dark, and the people we asked told us that the lake was dirty and swampy and definitely not good for swimming. He had made a friend Manuel who was eager to speak English and meet his gringa friend in town so we went back up there to see if we could camp out in his yard or something. He was really drunk and after many apologies, offers of hospitality, expressing that his father might not want visitors in his house, and some drunken deliberation we went over to his house, where Marta, his sister in law had spaghettios, beans, nopales, and tortillas heating up on the stove for us. We met his brother Ruben who went to ask his father if we could spand the night, and and two of their kids Moises 2, and Joel 8. We all slept in Manuel's room with him and he kept asking us what the hell we were doing in Mexico. In the morning I hung out with Moises Joel and their sister Ruby 6, in the beautiful garden. They showed me some hummingbirds and lizards. I met the father who was very nice and not as tyranous as Manuel had made him seem. Then we had some breakfast and hit the road.
We got turned around a bit and the hills and headwind were killer. We stopped in Tepaca and got some fruit and sat on a bench watching our bikes eating the best mango I've ever had. We got back to the Autopista which was way flatter but a two lane really busy highway with no shoulder so that was really scary! The cars and trucks were all nice to us even when we were totally blocking traffic. At night we camped out on a farm growing cilantro in San Salvador Huixcolota which seems to be some sort of agricultural supply center. We passed so many pesticide shops on the way there. When I asked the man who was working there if we could camp out there, he said it was too cold outside and we should come stay at his house but we told him we had a tent and would be OK outside. We made a little fire, cooked some TVP and all slept in the tent.
The next night we camped outside of Tepanco with the most gorgeous view of mountains clouds sunset and moon. I saw my first shooting star! My throat is starting to hurt from all the exhaust we are inhaling, it is pretty gross. The next day we rode through Tehuacan where we stopped for a swim in a little water hole in the city. It was very refrshing and there were lots of kids swimming there, and a woman washing clothes. Then we stopped for some fruit, I had chicos for the first time, really sweet and sort of pearlike. We rode through the center of town and when we got out of town it was all down hill, fairly open roads and the most incredible views of mountains, forests, pueblitas. We could even pass a lot of the cars at the speedbumps. The headwind was kind of nice relieving the heat. We stopped a couple of times with some bike trouble and camped out on a farm of corn, onions, and alfala. We met the family of about who offered for us to stay in there little shelter that they have near the farm. All the men work on the farm and a boy and the mother were there too for the end of the day.
In the morning we got breakfast in Altepexi and the man at the fix it shop built Autin a wheel out of his old hub and new rim. From there it was more downhill and so beautiful. There are some hills covered in huge cacti and beautiful layered mountains; going through it all with the wind in your face is absolutely breathtaking. It was really hot so we stopped for some popsicles in Coxcatl?n (after some major uphills) and chatted with some very sweet kids--literally, one was name Dulce! Then we kept riding, mostly downhill and stopped for some shade and water by a little stream and stuck our feet in. The roads got kind of crazy with potholes and Austin's rear wheel tacoed so he hitchhiked to Teotitlan and Perry and I rode and met him there. Practically every driver who passes us honks and waves smiling and friendly, it's awesome. A nice guy, Rato, took Austin to 6 bike shops to look for wheels, but no success. That night we stayed at our first hotel for $5 each and got to take showers! There was some sort of festival going on in town. We sat in the Plaza where kids were playing with balls, climbing on the fountains and benches, and dressed up like animals. There were preformances going on too that were very cute, some kindergarten duckies, kids in ballgowns and hula outfits. The whole plaza has a magical feeling. The cabs here are little golf carts. One of the girls we met in Coxcotlan came and said hi to us.
I spent the next morning reading in the plaza. Perry and Austin tried to sell his bike, unsuccessfully, so we decided to take a bus to Oaxaca to get a new wheel or a new bike. We loaded all our stuff including bikes on top of a mini bus, the size of a big van. The ride was very fast and curvy and lots of climbs and we were going along sides of mountains with no guardrails with crazy drivers, some if it I was dissapointed not to be on my bike, but for the most part I have to admit that I was sort of glad we took the easy way. We found a cheap hotel when we got here, got some elotes and looked for a place to eat dinner. We sat down in what we thought was a restaurant and got some beer only to find out they didn't serve food. A very drunk woman kept asking Perry if he wanted to hire her for the night. That night Austin and Perry hung out with the desk guy at the hotel and I layed down because I wasn't feeling too hot. Sure enough I spent all night and the next day in the bathroom, very unpleasant and gross, so unfortunatly I haven't really gotten to appreciate Oaxaca. When I was finally feeling like I could leave the hotel I went to check my email because I had made plans to meet up with Pete, and of course it was too late and I missed him, and felt really bad because he took a bus up to the city to hang out. I walked around the Zocalo and Cathedral and some flea markets for a little while, mostly in a semi daze because I felt so sick.
Now Autin and Perry are out to fix Austin's bike once and for all (haha). They have been really nice taking care of me and offered to stay here a little longer if I don't feel like riding, but I think I'm ready to leave, I don't feel like I can do anything here anyways and I feel well enough to ride, though I may be regretting this decision later.
The mixes of cycling and bussing and city and country have been kind of nice so far. We get to see all sorts of people and scenery and culture. The riding has been the most amazing and beautiful (the mostly downhill probably factoring into that significantly). And there are actually a lot of people riding bikes around which I have been surprised to see.
Now we are heading towards the coast!
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