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Posted by: ariel on 03/10/2008 01:02 AM
Updated by: ariel on 03/10/2008 08:58 AM
Expires: 01/01/2013 12:00 AM
C.D. Mexico

I finally arrived in Mexico City after spending hours switching airplanes in Pheonix. The men working in the baggage claim got a kick out of me reassebling my bike in the airport and looked at me like I was crazy when I told them I planned to bike around Mexico. I was a little nervous that I would have to navigate Meixco city at night by myself with my bike since I was about 6 hours late and hadn't told Perry or Austin my flight number, only a rough estimated time of arrival, but they were there waiting for me with big smiles which was relieving and exciting. Then walking outside into 70 degree weather really made the excitement of this adventure set in! We took a taxi back to Ivan's --our awesome host and tourguide--house, got some elotes (just like in chicago!) and called it a night. I'm surprised at how well my spanish has been since I got here, I guess the necessity here is forcing me to be resourceful and not bashful.

Tuesday we took the metro to Coyoacan. The transfer station at La Raza was totally packed and in the correspondencia there is a dark room with zodiac signs on the ceiling, pretty cool at least the first time walking though. Coyoacan is a beautiful area, colorful buildings and red pink and purple flowering trees everywhere! We ate some gorditas, looked at some instruments in a little shop, and made our way to Frieda's blue house. The ambiance was really nice in the courtyard and I especially liked her drawings that looked like very intricate doodles, and commy liturature and posters all over the place, and correspondences of hers and Diego's. We went back to the zocalo and walked around and ate yummy churros and admired the huge bicycle racks and little frame bags everyone has on their bikes.

Jesus, Ivan's friend took us to Teotihuacan to see the Pyramides de sol and lun--very impressive. Driving out of the city, the mountains in the backgrond were clouded by smog which showed just how polluted the city was. There were people selling jewelry and whistles and all kinds of stuff all over the place, there were so many of them, it's hard to believe that they actually make any money. We climbed a pyramid and explored a bit. I got a pink nose and forehead.

Thursday I went down to the zocalo to get more of a feel for the city, I went to the palace across the street where there are beautiful Diego Rivera murals, looked around and sat down and drew for a while. Karl Marx goes by Carlos in Mexico apparently, that struck me as funny. Then I walked through the big park, ate some mango and platanos and read. I made my way to the bike district after I got sick of staring at a map and just wandered. I have never seen so many bike shops in such proximity, it is about 4 blocks of only bike shops, and there are tons of prostitutes in front of the stores. Sort of weird.

Friday me and Perry went to get sopes for breakfast, I am surprised that people hardly eat beans here and no rice at all. I met Raul, Anabel, and Uriel for dinner in Coyoacan. I thought Raul was just a friend of a friend of my parents, but after discussing living in Chicago he asked me if I knew Stuart, and was very surprised and thrilled to find out he was my dad. El es muy tranquilo y simpatico he said, you have a very warm place in his heart, Dad. He made me get up to give me a huge hug. Then it felt like we were long lost family and it was really nice hanging out and speaking spanish and getting to know them.

The next morning we went to the punk flea market which was mostly high school kids, american music, and the usual weed/punk kitchy couter culture stuff, and one stand of anarchist zines. Perry and Austin stayed to listen to the bands that were playing and me and Joel left to walk around. We went to the cafe on the 8th floor of the sears building where there's a really nice view of the fine arts building and then made our way to Giarbalidi plaza, or Mariachi square where we met Ivan, P +A, and Emma who we met at the punk market for salsa lessons. The lessons were so much fun! and hopefully I'll continue to learn while I'm here. It's $3 for 2 hours of dance lessons and dancing all night. We left after a couple hours, had dinner and went to a warehousy space to see polka madre. I had fun dancing to the DJ, and one of the bands the opened for them played klezmer sounding music with awesome clarinet and saxophone. I was pretty tired by the time Polka Madre came on but it was nice to listen to. After the show the 5 of us (not including the driver) squeezed into a VW cab, which felt quite like a clown car.

Today we had breakfast and worked on our bikes most of the day. I went to the zocalo with Joel and Ivan, it was busier today than I've seen it and I notices the purple flowering trees all around and the beautiful architecture of the surrounding buildings. Then I saw a group of bicyclists and one man was wearing a shirt that said 1 auto menos, one less car. Naturally I was thrilled and took a picture and started talking to them about biking, they just got back from a day trip and are doing a top to bottom mexico trip this summer. THey were pretty excited about our trip and we exchanged information.

Perry and I looked at some maps, the plan is to bus it to Pueblo tomorrow morning so that we don't have to ride out of the city and make our way down to Oxaca, and then to language school near Chiapas. Finally we will get to start biking! The terrain we will be riding around looks beautiful with lots of change in elevation, yikes!

I've really loved it here in Mexico city. Ivan has been so hospitable and helpful and really has made us feel at home in his apartment, meeting other people travelling through was inspiring, going to the concert made if feel sort of like home, dinner with Raul was so warm, and even though it's an insanely dirty city it is so beautiful..the people, energy, flowers, weather.


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