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Posted by: perry on 11/22/2007 07:58 AM
Updated by: perry on 11/22/2007 07:58 AM
Expires: 01/01/2012 12:00 AM
Traveling with Dwaine

I found out one day that Dwaine, who I've known for a couple years, would be finishing his working teaching english in Croatia at the beginning of September. We'd always wanted to travel together and since we were so near to eachother we decided to hit the road.


We met up first in Zagreb. He needed to get more pages in his passport and I wanted to go to the embassy to complain about the stupid fine I got for not having regitered with the police while I was staying on the coast the previous week. Well, nothing came from my complaint but he got 24 new pages in his passport (something I'll have to do someday too, but not yet).

Also I got to meet a surely wonderful person under normal circumstances. Lisa, Dwaine's ex-girlfriend came to meet him. He asked her to get him a ticket back to the US because he didn't have a credit card. He paid for it and all, but after they broke up she started messing with his ticket for no reason. Durring the following month Dwaine would get many emails from her telling him that the ticket was cancelled, changed, or would cost him more money. Every day was another story and more stess for Dwaine. He was really looking forward to going home and Lisa was just ruining his chances to get back.

We ended up staying in Zagreb for a few days, half of it rainy. I didn't have any shoes with me, only sandals (my boots were at the vineyard). We had a really cool host, Ivan (pocket), while we were there. We cooked together and had a lot of fun playing chess. One night while at Ivan's, something like 8 travelers showed up last minute looking for a place to sleep, so the place was crowded but a lot of fun anyhow.

Also while in Zagreb we met up with Dubi who I met last year while staying in Zagreb. He took us around the city a bit and we went out for beer a couple times.

When it was finally time to leave were ended up running late for the train and caught it luckily with just a couple minutes to spare. I had gotten a round trip ticket which took me back to Nagykanizsa (the round trip ticket was cheaper than buying a single ticket to Zagreb, crazy eh?). But Dwaine didn't have time to buy a ticket so he had to get it from the conductor.

When we arrived in Nagykanizsa, I gave Dan a call and he just happened to be near the train station with Zoltan. So they came and picked us up and we all went grocery shopping together. We ended up spending 6 nights in Liszo. During that time we harvested all the red grapes. In the evening Martin (from Berlin) and a few friends came and they helped dance on the grapes.

It was another relaxing and fun time at the vineyard again. It's always nice to go back. One night Julia and I went on an evening walk with a bottle of Unicum. We made it to a shelter just as it started raining and spend a couple hours sitting there talking. Then when it cleared up, we went back to the vineyard. Just around the corner from the house we decided to strip and come into the house naked with a story that somebody made up give them our clothes while walking in the fields. We were sitting there naked in front of Dwaine, Dan, and Martin drinking wine with them for about an hour (it wasn't very warm that night).

When Dwaine and I decided to go to Nis, Serbia, Martin also decided to go at the same time. We all decided to go the route through Zagreb so we could stay on the highway instead of going through the countryside. We managed to catch a ride for the three of us to the border town. From there we crossed the border in Croatia. This was a really strange crossing. When they scanned my passport, the border guard said "so you are an engineer?". But what the fuck? It doesn't say that anywhere in my passport and why to they have access to that kind of information when I cross the border. They proceeded then to check our backpacks while we stood back and laughed at them in their impossible search for something which wasn't in our bags.

Well, from the border Dwaine and I split off from Martin (he was only going to Beograd and we were going further). We caught a couple trucks in a caravan which took us both to the same place in Zagreb. From there we hitched to Serbia. Again the cops came and gave us a visit and searched our bags. When we told them that we often hichhike, they told us we were crazy. A few minutes after that another cop came to check us and we told him that his friends in the building next to us already did the job and he also saluted us with a "you're crazy" before leaving.

We got the Beograd some time in the evening and were unfortunately dropped off at a gas station in the city. From there it was just impossible to find a lift going out from the city. So we ended up catching a bus to Nis. The bus was playing a movie in english with serbian subtitles. But the driver wouldn't turn up the volume enough for us to hear the film. And he also wouldn't let us have reading lamps. Really stupid.

When we arrived in Nis, we headed straight to Micky's house, found the spare key, and let ourselves in. Micky wasn't around so we headed out to go look for him. We actually found him after about 5 minutes crossing directions in the street. He was walking down the street with a nearly empty beer case wearing a colorful bath robe. His good friend's girlfriend had just given birth to his second child, so Micky had been drinking with his friend since the morning. We joined the celebration and went with Micky to the city fort. There we had a fire, beer, rakia, and lots of fun people to talk with.

We came to Nis at this time because Micky was organizing an Eco-party. But because of the night before party in the fort and the police being stupid like they always are, it had to be cancelled. The police told him he did not have permission to have the party tent in the fort. He told them that he got the permission but since the police didn't know about it (and it was now the weekend) he had to cancel everything including bands, a bar, presentation, and so on.

The next couple of days had some other things from the eco-party which were not cancelled and we ended up with free tickets to see a few Serbian bands play. It was pretty cool and we enjoyed the music. Dwaine ended up loosing his camera at the concert (that sucks!). That night Micky also had a few guests from Beograd. We planned to all go to the Nis hot springs the following evening. So we picked up a bunch of wine and headed up there. We drank and talked for a few hours with nice hot water pouring over us. Wonderful. But the hot spring doesn't run as heavy as it did last year since the local hotels are tapping the water more and more. It's hardly a trickle to what it was last year.

Well, Dwaine, me, and our new friends from Beograd ended up going from the springs to a little shop and buying a lot more wine. We also made ourselved a nice big sanwich party with food from the shop. Excellent! That night we all ended up going to a party and drinking until somthing like 5am when our friends from Beograd caught their train back home. It was definately a long long night, one to remember!

Our time in Nis was up and we decided to head to Skopje, Macedonia next. But there was a problem. We hadn't soon Micky in two days. None of his friends or his grandpa had either. So we ended up just writing a note saying that we had headed off and that we would see him on our way back north. It took us a while to figure out which bus to take to the end of town, then we walked a bit to the motorway and started hitching. It took a lot longer than we thought to get to Skopje, but we end up getting there a few hours after dark. We had a few really strange rides including a guy from Italy who wouldn't say what his job was, where he was going, and kept warning us not to go to Kosovo. He ended up leaving us about 20km before the border where we caught a ride a few hours later (it's not a highly travelled road and we spent a lot of time throwing rocks at street signs) to the border. At the border, the border guard asked us if we were carying any guns, cocaine, or bombs. I think she was making a joke and we laughed our way into Macidonia. About 2 minutes later we caught a lift with a taxi which took us for free to Skopje.

Next comes a situation that happens every once in a while. First we met up with our host in the city center. From there we started towards a bar for a beer when I notices a backpacker and I recommeded that we ask her if she wants to join us for a beer (a regular thing to do, if you ask me). When I approached her and said "hello backpacker", she turned and I got a look at her face and was dumfounded. It turned out to be a friend of both me and Dwaine from Poznan, Poland. Zuza had just arrived in Skopje herself and didn't have a place to stay. She was planning on staying awake all night to wait for her friend Ola to arrive by train so they could travel together. Our host said it was ok for Zuza and Ola to stay with him too, It was a really joyous meeting.

Early the next morning I got up with Zuza to go pick up Ola from the bus stop and to have some coffee. Then durring the day Zuza and Ola went into the city to explore while Dwaine and I went to nearby Tetovo. The main purpose of our visit to Macedonia was to go to Tetovo to take a look at the university there. Dwaine was interested in seeing the campus and was considering applying for a job teaching english there. After exploring the small new university we went for pizza at the closest restaurant to the university. Tetovo has a high muslim Albanian population so it was impossible to order a beer with the pizza. It was something that really kinda surprised us. No beer with pizza. hrm.

We went back to Skopje in the evening to meet up with the girls and Zoran (our host). We all headed to the main square to watch some kind of video/theater performance which was incredibly boring and ended with a gigantic hot-air-baloon rocket launching out of the stage looking like a giant floating fallace. After we went to a couple bars and drank. The last bar took us to a place with live music. the band was pretty good and played some fun songs. Lots of people were dancing. We went back home at about 3am.

I had made a date to pick up some ganga at 8 in the morning. I pulled myself out of bed really early and walked to the meeting point with an empty stomach hoping to get back to bed really soon. My contact appologized for not having enough for me to get but just had enough for a joint for us to share. But first was drank some coffee, then went to his place and had more coffee. By then my stomache was just full of strong coffee. Then we headed to the river, sat down, and smoked. Being tired, full of coffee, and then smoking a joint nearly ruined me. All three factors working on me with equal effect. We talked for a while then I went back home and entered the bedroon with Dwaine, Zuza, and Ola. I woke them up and told them that I failed to pick up anything but that I was on a coffee high, sleep deprived, and stoned. I was going to be useless for the next couple of hours. Sleep was impossible becuase of the coffee. Activity was impossible because of the lack of sleep and the joint.

Eventually Zuza, Ola, and Dwaine had prepared to leave (Zuza and Ola both taking an incredibly long about of time), so it was my turn to take a quick shower and pack (I still was ready to go before Zuza and Ola). We headed to the road out of Skopje and broke into two boy-girl teams to hitchhike to Ohrid. At one time Ola and I were waiting at a toll booth when Dwaine and Zuza arrived. Two minutes later a car stopped and took them (it should have been our ride, but whatever). Then when we finally arrived in Ohrid it turned out that we had arrived no more than 10 minutes apart. Zuza and Ola headed off to pick up groceries for a couple days camping on the lake and dwaine and I watched the bags. From there we took a bus to the southern Albanian border of Lake Ohrid to a border village with a monistary.

When we arrived, the people on the bus told us where we could camp for free. We had only a two person tent for the four of us. They managed to get Dwaine in the tent with the two girls but I couldn't even lay in the tent lengthwise without my feet sticking out. So I decided to go find somewhere else to sleep (it looked like it would rain). I ended up going to the row of souvineer shops lined along the beach and climbing on top of one of them and sleeping there. Above the shop was an elevated roof with just enough room for the length of my forearm. I slept there just fine.

In the morning I was woked up by the locals going by. Nobody noticed me for a really long time. Then someone was looking my way and talking with a friend and pointing in my direction. So I figured that I'd been spotted, so I waved. I was wrong, they hadn't seen me till then, they just saw the yellow backpack laying next to me. They had quite a laugh and I because a kind of celebrity durring the day with everyone asking me how my sleep was. Nobody cared that I was sleeping on top of the shop, not even the shop owner.

The day was cloudy the whole time except for a 10 minute break in the clouds, durring which Dwaine and I ran full speed into the lake for a quick swim. The rest of our day was spent eating, drinking beer, and spending about a half hour exploring the monistary and using their bathroom. We made a friend with one of the shop owners, drinking coffe, eating dinner, and drinking beering in the evening with him. In the evening a father-daughter pair of backpackers came by and they joined us for a bit of beer before catching a bus to Ohrid, and the father shared his flask of whisky that he'd been saving for a special ocasion since they left Scottland 2 weeks before with us. Also during the day I found a better shelter for the coming night. There was an overturned boat which sheltered me from the wind magnificantly and I spent my night there.

The next day we headed back to Ohrid and everyone used the internet for a short time. Then we broke into our hitching teams again and headed off the St. John the Baptist Monistary in the mountains of northwest Macedonia. The drive through the mounatins was breathtaking. It would be really nice to go on a bike or boat ride in those parts. Ola and I arrived a few hours before Dwaine and Zuza and we were starting to get worried that they wouldn't make it before dark. Well, they did arrive just before dark and so we decided to stay the night at the monistary. It was a strange place to be and I didn't really want to be there. But we made the best of it that we could.

In the morning Dwaine and I headed off to Nis together while Zuza and Ola headed to Sofija. We saw eachother a few times along to the road passing eachother on the first half of our common route. When we got to Serbia, the border guards searched our bags in seperate rooms and actually made us drop our pants (not our underwear though). What the hell? Well, from the border it was a really long time before we caught a lift. We ended up with one which took us to Leskovac. Our drives were just a bit older than us and really nice too. They took us out for dinner. Then they took us to the bus and saw us off on our way to Nis. When we arrived, Micky wasn't home. I gave him a call and he asked if we were up to going to a party. So we met him in the city center and he took us to his friend's house for a birthday party which lasted until morning and was full of beer, wine, and rakia. The place was full and everyone was having a really good time. Then we went to Micky's and slept the whole day.

The next day Dwaine wanted to stay home and relax so Micky and I went out of a walk and ended up going to the place of the party the day before. The party picked up again and again went into the morning. I had no way of contacting Dwaine to have him come and join us. I'm not sure what he did all day except surf the web and deal with the never ending drama of his plane ticket back to the US. But the party was a blast. I ended up not drinking that night with a few other people. I also ended up meeting and getting to know some more people. We played some stupid games and had a great time. The music was loud and the police came and promptly left. No problem. I met a really nice girl, Olja, at the party. We ended up going out in the middle of the night asking random people for beer money and even ended up bringing back some more people to the party.

We headed our from Nis to go to Novi Sad. We managed to get there with just one lift and spent a couple hours around the center before meeting with a couple of Dwaine's friends. We went to their place out in a nearby village. Then we all got on their motorcycles for a sunset ride to go out for pizza (something I'd been dreaming about for a few days) and this time with beer. We only ended up staying for one night.

From there we headed back to Hungary and to the vineyard. We got most of the way there and took a train for the last little bit. Dan and Julia were that and they had just purchased a car to travel from the vineyard to France and back. They gave us a lift through the night to Munich. I ended up sitting next to Runa and had to calm her down all night and didn't get any sleep.

But once in Munich, we headed to SOMA house and took up our place to stay there until Dwaine flew home. We still weren't sure what was happening with his ticket and there was just a couple days left before he was supposed to leave. There was an HC meeting at Octoberfest and I finally went to this crazy mayhem of expensive beer. We got ourselves a table in a beer garden and drank tea the whole day. I also contacted Krissy, who came to the vineyard in August, and she met up with us at Octoberfest. She was even dressed in the traditional dress for the party and I made fun of it. I promised never to go back. It's not my kind of party.

After we left, Dwaine met up with Lisa finally and got all the ticket stuff worked out. He had to fly our early in the morning. So I stayed awake with him until he had to start the walk to the train station to get to the airport.

It was really great traveling with Dwaine. Full of surprised, great parties, cool people, beautiful scenery, great food, and excellent comradship. He said that he plans on being back in Europe for new years, but I haven't heard anything more concrete in a while. I hope to see him when he gets back.

After Dwaine left, I spent a coupld more days in Munich. Someone from the house, Leanna, was working at Octoberfest and she told me that she could get me a job for a day there. I decided to give it a try and ended up having to sell cellphone condoms with Octoberfest written on the package. NOBODY WANTED ONE. So I asked if I could start selling these stupid heart-shaped cookies with either "Ich liebe dich" or "Ich habe dich sooooo lieb" (I love you and I like you a lot). I had to buy then for 2.50 each and try to sell them for 3 each. I started selling a few and then started asking for 4 for each. It turned out that I ended up making about 30 euros that day and sold far more cookies than anybody else probably ever had in one day. I also got a lot of free beer from people and some excellent tips as well. After I quit (around 8pm), I joined Leanna and we headed into the beer tent to meet with some nice people that I met while selling the cookies. It was starting to get late and I started noticing all the 3/4 full beers left by the people that had been drinking the whole day. So for the next two hours me, Leanna, and our new friends drank for free (a 1 liter beer costs 8euro) from the leftover beer on the tables around us.

When everything closed, Leanna and I started to look for a party to go to, but didn't find one. Then we decided to head back to the house. Somehow we got seperated and I went home alone. Just before the house there was a small corner bar that I'd never been to. I went in wearing my hood on and sun glasses and just sat at the bar and ordered a beer. I didn't look around or take off my jacket or sunglasses. When I finished my beer, I asked for the bill. While I was drinking, someone asked me if I was a tourist and I said no. (all of this was in german). When I got up to leave there was a small man not far from me and who I towered over being almost twice his height. He saw me rise and I must have scarred the hell out of him and he ended up doing what I've only ever seen in the movies. He shrinked back with his hands before him shaking. All I could do then was to leave and laughed all the way home. It was so funny. And even funnier since I'll probably never be back in that bar again.

So, now it was finally time to go back to Berlin. It had been a really long time. My last ride ended up being with a couple Italian guys who were going there for a few days and were planning on sleeping in their car. I told them I could find them a free place to sleep and we all ended up staying in Wedding together at a house that a few of my friends are livning in. But my time in Berlin and everything after will have to wait until later and another story.

Peace,

Perry



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Posted on: 2010-08-08 20:25:53   By: Anonymous
 

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