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Posted by: perry on 04/17/2007 11:16 AM
Updated by: perry on 04/17/2007 11:16 AM
Expires: 01/01/2012 12:00 AM
Madeira (2)
My second half of my stay in Madeira took me on some exciting hiking, brought me back to places I had been before, and durring the process I met some interesting people.
My recolection of events and the times that they took place cronologically are going to be out of whack since it?s been over two months since my last post. I must admit I?ve been quite unmotivated to write about my travels lately and again I will try to make the effort to keep my page up to date (haha).
Well, after a while I finally met up with Redrigo again. I had gone to Ribeira Brava to stay at his place for a short time but he was a bit detained at work. By this I mean that since he works for the military, and he kinda had a little nap on the job, he was kinda not allowed to leave the barracks for a few days. Oops. Well, anyhow when he came back to Ribeira Brava, we met up again and he told me all about it. He was also able to acquire a second hand jacket from his work for me, which I have been using since my old shirt has more holes in it than cloth. It basically fits even though the sleeves are a bit too short. But that?s to be expected. Anyhow, it was really nice to meet up with him and to stay at his place for a few days. We met up with a few of his friends durring my stay and had a good time. I also fell a little ill and ended up sleeping for almost 2 days straight until I was back on my feet again.
Also, since I?d been doing a lot of hiking during my stay, my boots were all but destroyed. I?d glued the sole back on a few times but eventually there just wasn?t any sole left to glue back on. Again Rodrigo pulled a miracle out of his hat for me. He managed to get a pair of second hand boots from the Portuguese military for me. They are probably the best boots I?ve ever had and as an added bonus they were stolen from an army! Yeah! The boots are really quite nice, but they were a bit stiff and started blistering the back of the achilles tendon after a few days. Now I?ve got a nice strong calise (spelling?) and I?ve been using them almost constantly.
My time in Ribeira Brava also got me to know a few other people from the area. One cafe in town would nightly have a group of teachers there and I spent quite a few hours talking with them over a beer and pizza. Also, I met up with a really nice guy, Martino, who lives at the top of the mountain next to the city. He invited me to stay at his place for a while. We ate some really good food (It was fun trying to explain why I?m vegetarian) and he took be for a ride along the mountain tops on the back of his 4-wheel offroad bike thingy. He also kicked my ass in chess (he teaches chess to children).
Another place where I ended up spending a lot of my time was in Conical and the nearby beach Prainha. I went there after a short trip along the north coast of the island so I could be somewhere that I kinda knew and could just lay in the sun for a while. I ended up going to the end of the island on a walk in the national park, which was totally breathtaking, watching the churning waters from the top of a cliff which is literally overhanging the ocean like in a road runner cartoon. The colors of the rocks and the shapes made my the ocean were stunning too. After the walk I hitched a ride into Conical to pick up some groceries and had to wait for the market to open back up from siesta. So I went into the bar next door for a coffee and almost instantly made a friend, Olga.
Olga is a realy hippy girl living and working where she doesn?t really want to. I could tell from talking to her that she?s got the travel bug. We ended up spending many hours over the next couple weeks talking, walking, going to the beach, drinking beer, etc. She?s beautiful and funny and always smiling. I am quite sure at first there was a really strong attraction but then her village situation kicked in and she backed away because people talk too much in the village. GRRRRRR! It?s too bad, but like a friend of mine said a few days after I met her that it is a common problem on the island. Everyone knows everyone else and word gets around. Most of the girls on the island won?t have anything to do with people who are forigners. But overall I do know that I made a friend and if I go back to Madeira, I?ll go to that little cafe in that little village for a coffee.
As a result of getting to know Olga, I also got to meet a few of her friends. the one I talked to the most was Rogerio. He told me a lot about the life in the village from an interesting point of view. He?d gone to work in places all over europe durring his life and now he?s back in his home town and you could tell from a few minutes talking with him about traveling that he?s also looking for a way to get off Madeira. He joined me and olga at the beach a few times and at parties too.
For a few days I decided to go for a trip to see more of the island than the few other places I?d already been. I headed up Paul do Mar and spent a few days sleeping next to a waterfall near the coast. This is the place in Madeira where to surfers to and the locals were telling me that the waves were unusually high while I was there. They were absolutely amazing actually, but they kept me up at night with their constant booming. While in Paul do Mar I also went on another hike (with the old destroyed boots since I didn?t have the new ones yet). The walk is almost verticle with a lot of switchbacks and great views. When I got to the top (about 600 meters) there was a hotel and I finally decided to try to do something I?d thought about doing for qutie a while. I?d just about finished my last book (Darwin?s Origin of Species). So I went into the hotel and asked them if they had any english books that people had left behind that I could take. No problem! It was great. I picked up a huge book which I thought would take me a long time to read (Cryptinomicom). Well, once I started reading it I finished all 1800 pages in just a few days, but now I had a way to get books for free which I took advantage of during the rest of my stay on the island which brought me a few crappy books (they mostly have crappy romance books) but some really good ones too. I picked up a small little spy-vs-spy-vs-spy book starring Israel, The Soviet Union, and Egypt in a race to nuclear armorment. But best of all was Last Exit to Brooklin which I recommend above all the others.
After Paul do Mar, I headed to the north side of the island and did some more hiking but really just moslty reading. My hitchhiking also brought me to meet some interesting people who were born in Madeira but have been living in Boston since they were children. Their Bostonian accent was actually hard for me to follow. They took me almost half way across the island as they were just going for a ride for the view. I told them about all the great hiking I?d been doing and they were just totally not interesting in doing any hiking themselves.
After a while, about the time that I went back to Prainha, I started getting the feeling that it was time to get off the island. That was changed a bit when I met Olga, but when that was stalled, I started getting the itchy feet again. I thought it would be really cool to try to hitch a ride on a boat. Unfortunaty it was the wrong season to do that, but I was told that durring the summer it?s really no problem at all. After a few days I just decided to go to the airport and ask for the cheapest flight to anywhere in europe in the next week, which brought me the change to go the next day to London. I took it.
My last night in Madeira I was going to spend sleeping at the airport. Why not? So, I was at the nearby village hanging out, eating some food, when I started talking to a really cool dutch couple. They ended up going to a bar with me to watch soccer (I?m so used to calling it football now) and then in the eveing we grabbed a few more beers and they invited me to sleep on the extra bed in their rental flat. I doin?t think I?d laughed so much in one night in Madeira as I did with them. When I go to the Netherlands, I?ll be sure to pay them a visit.
In the morning they dropped me off at the airport and I was on my way off the island, just to go to another one (but England is a big bigger of an island).
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