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Posted by: perry on 02/07/2007 08:05 AM
Updated by: perry on 02/07/2007 08:05 AM
Expires: 01/01/2012 12:00 AM
Madeira with Steffi (First Week of 2007)
Steffi and I came to Madeira looking for sun, swimming, some time to read, and a good time. What did we find? Well, read on to find out.
When Steffi and I arrived at the airport, we got our things and started walking almost directly towards the nearest village, Santa Cruz, to get a good look at the ocean. It's the first time I'd seen the atlantic since two years ago when I was in Cornwall, England. In Cornwall it was cloudy, gloomy, and cold, but here, with the warm weather, hot sun, and sparkling blue ocean as far as you could see, we knew we picked the right spot.
We ended up walking along the ocean for a while before deciding to hitchhike, which took us to Cani?o where we had a coffee and decided we didn?t really like the place (it seemed to be the almost only hotels and no sandy beach). From there we hitchhiked to a place called Ribeira Brava. Ribeira Brava was an excellent place for us to stay the first couple of nights. We had a sandy beach (although we had to sleep near the road and there are a lot of lights). But durring the day, the sun was magnificant, and durring the evenings we would walk around the village, have a few beers, and we basically relaxed.
We decided to go check out this beach in Calheta. It was made from sand imported from Africa somewhere, so it was a golden beach. All the natural sand here is black volcanic sand. We spent a night there (it?s another place with hotels, oh well). But on the way to Calheta, we got a ride from a guy named Rigo and he recomended that we go check out Jardim do Mar. So, off we went and it didn?t take long to get there.
Jardim do Mar is a old village which only just got a road going to it something like 10 or 15 years ago. The old way into and out from the village was mainly by walking up and down the steep cliff path overlooking the village about 300 meters up. And people would have to walk up and down that path with all their groceries. Jardim do Mar is also one of the two places on the island with the biggest waves and therefore surfers. The other place is their nieghbor, Paul do Mar, which also only got a road about 10 or 15 years ago.
In Jardim do Mar, we walked trough the walkways (there are no streets in the village, just one going to it and a parking lot) down to the coastline and walked along it for a while. Then we headed back into the village and went to the local bar (Joe?s) for a few drinks and a bit of food. While there, we got started talking to the couple that live next door (Dig and Sam) and they told us how to get to a nearby cave where we could sleep just a few meters from the ocean for the night. They even donated a few candles to us. The cave is man made and was once used as a storage locker for the local grocer. It was full of empty beer bottles, but we just pushed them to the side and made ourselves at home.
We decided that we would also like to see some of the north side of the island. Madeira is really tall (peaks at about 1800 meters) and generally gets with from the north. So the north side of the island get a lot of moist air coming twoards it, which then is forced up the mountains, cooling as it goes, and forming clouds and rain. It?s the rainy dark side of the island with fewer people, roads, and a lot of forest and jungle. So we hitchhiked back to Riberia Brava, stayed there in the sun for a few hours, then started hitchhiking north to get to Sao Vecente. Our first ride was only going as far a Serra do Agua (about 1/3 of the way) but was going to a bar that he said was famous on the island. He invited us to come with for a Poncha (a drink made from rum, orange juice, and honey) at Taberna da Poncha.
At the bar we met some of his friends and ended up drinking with some of them for quite a while. We also got invited by Ana to come stay at her place for the night and she said that her boyfriend, Berthold, would be there shortly. We also met a few other people like Rodrigo, Bruno, and more.
After we'd all had a few drinks of the surprisingly strong Poncha, we all headed back to Ana and Berthold?s place. Ana stole Steffi from me, Rodrigo, and Berthold and they started to cook. I think Ana believes men can?t cook, but anyhow they made us a really great soup and a spinache pie. It was really amazing.
We spent the rest of the night drinking beer, listening to music, and having a good time. Ana set up a couple hammocks outside which Rodrigo and I each had one, and Steffi slept in the spare bedroom.
The next day we ended up going to Rodrigo on a tour of the island. He took us to the plato of the island, drove us around on the north side of the island a bit (so we did actually get to see it). He even took us to a cool little hidden place that he likes to go to called Ribeira Funda where we sat and looked out over the landscape below out to sea. At one point, on the edge of a deep ravine, there is such a strong constant wind that the trees growing there have grown to look like they?ve been combed like coarse hair (look at pics). We also went to Porto Moniz where they have taken the sharp schoal rocks, sticking out of the ocean like teeth and breaking waves constanly for eons, walled them off, and created pools which sit directly on the ocean. It was truely an amazing work of engineering.
The next day we headed into Funchal (hitchhiking again) to meet up with an HC member names Pedro. He took us on a bit of a city tour and showed us a few nice places around the island?s capital. He was very informative and friendly and it was really nice to spend the day with him. In the evening the three of us met up with Rodrigo at a video arcade and played some table soccor. Then we joined Rodrigo back to his place (but not without stopping for a Poncha on the way).
Steffi?s last day was spent with meeting up with Ana who had some things to do at the airport anyhow. She took us from Rodrigo?s and waited with us until Steffi left.
Like always, I really enjoyed traveling with Steffi. We both found it really funny how small the scale of getting around the island is. A lot of pressure was taken off us with respect to hitchhiking. We are used to sometimes covering over 800km in a day, and now here we look at the map and have to remember that it?s an island smaller than the city of Istanbul.
Well, anyhow, she?s back in Germany and I?m on my own again roaming around this beautiful mountainy island with breathtaking cliffs, beautiful flowers, amazing waves (in the west mostly), some extreme hiking, and few cool people that we?ve gotten to know.
Peace,
Perry
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